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Moumoujus

PORPHYRA YEZOENSIS EXTRACT.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

Porphyra Yezoensis Extract is a potent red algae derivative, renowned for its multifaceted benefits including robust antioxidant defense against urban pollutants, significant skin brightening, and the promotion of collagen synthesis for enhanced elasticity. Its hygroscopic nature also delivers effective hydration, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types seeking revitalized and protected complexions.

Summary

Antioxidant Anti-aging Skin brightening Hydrating Anti-pollution Collagen boosting Skin conditioning Anti-inflammatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract operates through several key pathways. It actively inhibits melanogenesis, decreasing tyrosinase activity by up to 35.5%, which leads to reduced melanin content and improved skin brightness. Its anti-aging efficacy stems from stimulating collagen production by promoting procollagen synthesis enzymes (TRP-1, TRP-2) while inhibiting collagen-degrading enzymes (MMP-2, MMP-9). As a powerful antioxidant, it reduces reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels and attenuates urban particulate matter (UPM)-induced cell damage and xenobiotic response by inhibiting AhR-induced ROS production. An active compound, Porphyra 334, further protects against UVB damage, modulating cell viability and apoptosis through JNK and ERK signaling pathways, and promotes keratinocyte proliferation. Additionally, its natural hygroscopic properties enable it to function as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin, and polysaccharides like porphyran may offer anti-inflammatory benefits.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 10 μg/mL–800 μg/mL%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In human keratinocytes, concentrations of 10-50 μg/mL significantly reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels and attenuated urban particulate matter (UPM)-induced xenobiotic response element (XRE) promoter activity. The active compound Porphyra 334, at 1-100 μm, similarly decreased cellular ROS and increased cell proliferation.
  2. 02 In vitro studies on mouse melanocytes, human dermal fibroblasts, and human dermal keratinocytes demonstrated no cytotoxic effects up to 800 μg/mL. At 800 μg/mL, it exhibited a potent inhibitory effect on melanogenesis, comparable to 100 μg/mL arbutin, and decreased tyrosinase activity by 35.5%.
  3. 03 A human volunteer study involving 23 participants showed enhanced skin brightness and reduced melanin content.
  4. 04 It promoted collagen production by inhibiting collagen-degrading enzymes (MMP-2 and MMP-9) and stimulating procollagen synthesis enzymes (TRP-1 and TRP-2).

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Information regarding typical inclusion percentages that may indicate 'dusting' is not available in the provided research data.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) deems red algae-derived ingredients, including Porphyra Yezoensis Extract, safe for cosmetic use. In vitro studies demonstrated no cytotoxic effects on mouse melanocytes, human dermal fibroblasts, or human dermal keratinocytes at concentrations up to 800 μg/mL for the extract, or 100 μm for its active compound, Porphyra 334. Some Porphyra species are also generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the US FDA for food consumption.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Porphyra Yezoensis Extract is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, offering significant antioxidant protection, melanin reduction, and collagen stimulation across various skin types without observed cytotoxicity.

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References

Sources