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Moumoujus

PORPHYRA UMBILICALIS EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 223751-76-6 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract, derived from red algae, offers multi-faceted skin benefits including robust natural UVA protection via mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). It actively combats photoaging by reducing UV-induced damage, while enhancing skin firmness, smoothness, and hydration through a rich profile of antioxidants and barrier-supporting compounds.

Summary

UVA Protection Antioxidant Anti-aging Skin Firming Skin Smoothing Hydration Barrier Support Collagen & Elastin Synthesis Booster Hyperpigmentation Reduction Soothing Anti-inflammatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

This marine extract primarily functions through mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), which effectively absorb UVA radiation at a peak of 335 nm, forming a natural photoprotective shield. Its rich antioxidant complex, including vitamins C and E, lutein, and beta-carotene, neutralizes free radicals, mitigating UV-triggered redness and cellular damage. Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract further promotes skin regeneration by boosting collagen and elastin production, improving the density of the dermal collagen network, and accelerating cellular turnover. It also minimizes hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin transfer, while its hydrating polysaccharides and peptides strengthen the skin barrier and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 A clinical study involving 20 women demonstrated that a 5% concentration effectively reduced lipid peroxidation, leading to improved skin firmness and smoothness, comparable to the efficacy of synthetic UV filters.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.5%

Clinical data and recommended usage levels indicate efficacy starting from 0.5% up to 5%. Concentrations below this range may not deliver the full spectrum of benefits observed in studies.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 3.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is water-soluble and stable within a pH range of 3.5 to 6.5. Components such as phycoerythrin and phycocyanin show temperature sensitivity, with denaturation observed above 45°C at pH 7.0 for phycoerythrin and around 60-65°C for phycocyanin. It can be formulated as a water-alcohol extract.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) assessed Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract as safe for cosmetic use, with no specified upper concentration limit. The EWG Skin Deep® database assigns low concern ratings for cancer, allergies, and developmental/reproductive toxicity, though it acknowledges a potential for contamination from impurities.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract is a valuable, multifunctional ingredient offering natural UVA protection, significant anti-aging benefits, and comprehensive skin health support, suitable for all skin types.

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