Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through several key mechanisms to support skin health. It effectively neutralizes free radicals, thereby mitigating oxidative stress, and actively suppresses a range of inflammatory mediators, including COX-2, iNOS, prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), nitric oxide (NO), tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin-6 (IL-6). The presence of photo-stable mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), such as Porphyra-334 and shinorine, provides inherent UV-absorbing capabilities and stimulates procollagen synthesis, contributing to skin resilience and anti-aging. Additionally, water-soluble polysaccharides like porphyran enhance its humectant and skin conditioning potential, supporting overall skin vitality and moisture retention.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 At 5 mg/mL, the extract demonstrated strong antioxidant effects, exhibiting 46.44% DPPH radical scavenging activity, 67.14% NO radical scavenging activity, and 80.29% superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity.
- 02 At 1 mg/mL, the extract significantly inhibited LPS-induced expression of inflammatory markers COX-2 and iNOS, as well as the production of PGE2, NO, TNF-α, and IL-6 in Raw 264.7 cells.
- 03 Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) identified within P. tenera, specifically Porphyra-334 and shinorine, were shown to inhibit skin aging by enhancing procollagen production in UV-irradiated mice.
- 04 An extract from the related species Porphyra umbilicalis induced the synthesis of stress protective proteins (HSP60, HSP70, HSP27) during thermal shock and stimulated HSP70 synthesis during UV irradiation in cells.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) present in Porphyra species exhibit high photo- and thermostability. The extract is soluble in water and 60-95% ethanol.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Tentative Report from March 2021 indicated insufficient data to make a determination of safety for cosmetic use, primarily due to a lack of systemic toxicity and/or sensitization data for topical application. However, Porphyra tenera is classified as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the US FDA for human consumption as a direct food substance.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Porphyra Tenera Sporophyte Extract is a valuable ingredient, demonstrating significant antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and moisturizing properties, although further comprehensive topical safety data is needed for a complete cosmetic assessment.
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References
Sources