Science
Mechanism of Action
This polyurethane derivative operates primarily as a film-forming agent, depositing a lightweight, invisible protective barrier on the skin's surface. This film safeguards against environmental aggressors and helps to retain vital moisture, thereby preventing dehydration. Furthermore, it enhances skin's intrinsic moisture balance, reducing roughness and promoting a supple, elastic feel. Its emulsifying properties facilitate the harmonious blending of oil and water phases within formulations. An additional benefit is its ability to impart a silky-smooth tactile experience and visibly diminish the appearance of fine lines, refining the overall cosmetic finish.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Polyurethane-68, when tested at a 100% concentration, demonstrated an estimated Draize ocular irritation score of 0, indicating an absence of irritation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
No specific data regarding the dusting behavior of Polyurethane-68 was identified in the research.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
As a complex polymer often provided in an emulsion or solution, Polyurethane-68 is inherently water-dispersible, aligning with common waterborne polyurethane cosmetic applications. While general polyurethanes offer resistance to various environmental factors, specific optimal pH ranges are not detailed. However, its composition with PPG-30 butyl ether suggests polyether characteristics, which typically confer greater stability in neutral to alkaline environments, compared to acidic conditions where some polyester polyurethanes may degrade significantly.
Conflicts
- Strong acids (e.g., concentrated Sulfuric Acid) can induce significant degradation.
- Specific ketones (e.g., Methyl Ethyl Ketone) may lead to substantial degradation or swelling.
- Phenol and Nitrobenzene are not recommended due to degradation risks.
- Formulations combining Polyurethane-68 emulsions or solutions with other sensitizer-containing ingredients (e.g., Methylisothiazolinone) should be approached cautiously to prevent cumulative concentrations of sensitizers.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deemed Polyurethane-68 and 65 other polyurethane ingredients safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-sensitizing. The panel confirmed the absence of detectable residual isocyanates or other monomers within these ingredients. While a specific maximum concentration for Polyurethane-68 was not explicitly set by CIR, the safety assessment encompasses its usage as currently practiced in cosmetics. Formulators must be diligent in avoiding the co-formulation of multiple solutions containing known sensitizers, such as methylisothiazolinone, to prevent reaching problematic cumulative concentrations. FDA reviews for polyurethanes in medical devices have noted potential adverse events from degradation products, though one study reported no maternal or developmental toxicity from such products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Polyurethane-68 is a valuable polymeric ingredient for its multifunctional benefits, including effective film-forming protection, moisturizing properties, and skin-smoothing effects, supported by a robust safety profile from CIR.
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References
Sources