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POLYLACTIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 9051-89-2 / ABRASIVE

Polylactic Acid (PLLA) is a biodegradable polymer utilized in skincare for its dual action as a gentle exfoliant and a film-forming agent. It promotes skin renewal while helping to lock in moisture, contributing to improved texture and tone. While widely recognized for its injectable collagen-stimulating properties, topical applications focus on surface benefits.

Abrasive/Exfoliant Film-forming Skin-conditioning

Science

Topically, Polylactic Acid functions as a gentle exfoliant, facilitating the removal of dead skin cells to promote cellular renewal and refine skin texture. It also forms a breathable, protective film on the skin's surface, which aids in retaining moisture. When delivered via injection, PLLA acts as a robust collagen stimulator, initiating a controlled inflammatory response that activates fibroblasts to produce the body's own collagen, thereby enhancing skin elasticity, firmness, and hydration. The polymer gradually biodegrades through lactic acid metabolism.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

5%


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 2 – 7.4
0 7 14

Stability

Polylactic Acid exhibits good stability across acidic to neutral pH ranges, specifically between pH 2.0 and pH 7.4. Degradation is noted to be accelerated in highly alkaline conditions, such as pH 10. For optimal polymer integrity in cosmetic formulations, maintaining a pH within the stable acidic to neutral range is advisable.


Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded in a September 2022 Draft Final Report that Polylactic Acid is safe for use in cosmetics, with reported concentrations up to 5% in skin cleansing products. The U.S. FDA has approved injectable forms of Poly-L-lactic acid for various cosmetic and medical applications, including facial fat loss and wrinkle treatment, and also approves Polylactic Acid as a food-contact material.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

Polylactic Acid is a valuable ingredient for topical skincare formulations, offering gentle exfoliation, moisturizing film-forming properties, and high compatibility across all skin types with low irritancy and comedogenicity.


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