Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates on two fronts: as an emulsifier, it utilizes its polyglyceryl-6 structure to effectively stabilize oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, ensuring product consistency. On the skin, its Sclerocarya Birrea Seedate component, originating from Marula oil, delivers a rich profile of fatty acids (such as oleic and palmitic acids) and antioxidants (like vitamins C and E). These compounds mimic the skin's natural lipid barrier, enhancing hydration, providing occlusive benefits to reduce transepidermal water loss, and offering antioxidant protection. Additionally, compounds within Marula extracts have demonstrated an ability to inhibit enzymes responsible for collagen and elastin degradation, contributing to anti-aging properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Clinical studies on Marula oil, the source of this ester, indicate it is non-irritating and significantly improves skin hydration and barrier function in lipid-dry skin, exhibiting moisturizing, hydrating, and occlusive properties. Furthermore, Sclerocarya birrea extracts have shown notable anti-elastase activity (>88%) and anti-collagenase activity (>76%) at a concentration of 200 µg/ml, with specific gallate compounds demonstrating potency at 5 µg/ml in anti-collagenase assays.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are generally stable across various pH ranges. The Marula oil component, with its saturated fatty acid content, contributes to the overall stability of the ingredient.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has deemed the broader family of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters, including this ingredient, safe for use under current practices and concentrations, provided formulations are non-irritating. A previous 5% concentration restriction for leave-on products was removed following studies that observed no sensitization at the highest reported use concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Polyglyceryl-6 Sclerocarya Birrea Seedate is a valuable ingredient, effectively blending oil and water phases while delivering the established moisturizing, barrier-supporting, and potential anti-aging benefits of Marula oil to all skin types.
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