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Moumoujus

POLYGLYCERYL-5 STEARATE.

Valuable CAS 37349-34-1 (generic) / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate is a highly efficient non-ionic emulsifying agent, essential for stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions in precision skincare formulations. It also contributes to skin hydration, softening, and overall product texture enhancement.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant Moisturizing Hydrating Skin conditioning Texture enhancing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by bridging oil and water phases due to its dual lipophilic (stearate) and hydrophilic (polyglyceryl) structure, thereby reducing interfacial tension to create stable emulsions. Within formulations, it builds a robust gel network around oil droplets, effectively preventing coalescence and maintaining consistent viscosity. On the skin, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate works to improve moisture balance, deliver moisturizing and softening effects, aid in hydration retention, and establish a protective barrier against dryness. Furthermore, it refines product texture, yielding a smoother and more pleasing application experience.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.5–5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 At a 5% concentration, polyglyceryl stearate induced oleogel formation in sunflower oils, demonstrating its capacity to structure lipid systems.
  2. 02 A broader class of polyglycerol esters, including Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, exhibited no adverse effects at concentrations up to 5 wt%, affirming its general safety profile.
  3. 03 A non-cytotoxic concentration of 0.5% was observed for related Polyglycerol Fatty Ester (PGFE)-based Nanostructured Lipid Carriers in cell viability assessments, indicating good cellular compatibility.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

As an emulsifying agent, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate is incorporated directly into the product formulation and is not typically used as a standalone 'dusted' active ingredient.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate (often in a blend with Glyceryl Stearate) maintains optimal stability within a pH range of 4-7, though related polyglyceryl self-emulsifiers demonstrate broader compatibility from pH 3 to 9. It acts as a one-step emulsifier, capable of forming stable oil-in-water emulsions, sometimes without the need for co-surfactants, by constructing a gel network around oil droplets. It shows excellent compatibility with diverse oil types, including vegetable oils, esters, mineral oil, and silicones, and tolerates electrolytes up to 3% NaCl or divalent salts.

Synergies

  • Glyceryl Stearate (when used in a blend)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed the safety of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, including Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, for cosmetic use under current practices and concentrations, provided formulations are non-irritating. Broader polyglycerol esters have demonstrated no adverse effects at concentrations up to 5 wt%. Additionally, Polyglycerol stearate (PGPR) holds Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) status for food applications by the FDA, reinforcing its favorable safety profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate is a valuable, well-tolerated emulsifying agent that significantly enhances formulation stability and texture while contributing to skin hydration and barrier support across all skin types.

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