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Moumoujus

POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEATE.

Valuable CAS 9007-48-1 / 71012-10-7 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate is a versatile non-ionic emulsifier and co-surfactant, expertly designed to stabilize oil and water phases, particularly within water-in-oil emulsions. Beyond its primary role in formulation, it provides valuable skin conditioning, contributing to hydration and a smoother skin feel, while also supporting the skin's natural barrier function.

Summary

Emulsifying Skin-conditioning Surfactant Hydrating Dispersant Solubilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a non-ionic emulsifying agent, effectively reducing interfacial tension to create stable, homogeneous formulations by blending immiscible oil and water components. It is particularly adept at forming water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. By combining the humectant properties of glycerin with the barrier-supporting attributes of oleic acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate also conditions the skin, enhances hydration, and aids in maintaining a healthy skin barrier function. It further acts as a dispersant and solubilizer within cosmetic matrices.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–20%
Optimal

2-10%

Key findings

  1. 01 Effective in leave-on applications, such as moisturizers, at concentrations of 2-10% for improved skin feel.
  2. 02 At a 20% concentration, it imparts a rich, non-sticky skin feeling in cleansing or shower oil formulations, enabling easy transformation into a washable milk upon water contact.
  3. 03 Recommended for use as a co-emulsifier, surfactant, rinse-off aid, and solubilizer for oil systems within a 1-10% range.
  4. 04 Capable of forming stable, high-performance water-in-oil emulsions with an impressive internal water phase of up to 80%, even at low concentrations, while delivering luxurious sensory properties.
  5. 05 As a co-surfactant, it significantly enhances the stability and broadens the microemulsion region, facilitating targeted delivery of ceramides into the stratum corneum with formulations demonstrating stability for 10 to over 24 months.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate creates highly stable water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions that resist rinse-off, making them ideal for gentle cleansing products. This ingredient is stable across various temperatures, permitting its use in cold-process emulsions. Optimal performance is generally observed with oils possessing an iodine value exceeding 80, such as almond oil, wheat germ oil, hemp oil, and wild rose oil. Its efficacy may be reduced when formulating with exceptionally heavy butters or waxes.

Synergies

  • Oils with an iodine value greater than 80 (e.g., almond oil, wheat germ oil, hemp oil, wild rose oil)

Conflicts

  • Jojoba oil
  • Avocado oil
  • Shea butter
  • Coconut oil
  • Babassu oil
  • Neutral oil
  • Very heavy butters/waxes

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate as safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations, provided formulations are non-irritating. It is not identified as an environmental toxin, exhibits a low potential for skin irritation, and is considered non-comedogenic.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate is a valuable, mild ingredient that efficiently stabilizes diverse formulations, particularly water-in-oil emulsions, while simultaneously offering beneficial skin conditioning and hydration across all skin types.

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