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Moumoujus

POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE/POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE/SEBACATE.

Valuable CAS - / EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

This sophisticated polyglyceryl ester functions primarily as a versatile emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer, adept at blending oil and water phases into stable cosmetic formulations. It also offers humectant properties, contributing to skin hydration and a smooth feel.

Summary

Emulsifying Emulsion Stabilizing Humectant Surfactant Emollient Viscosity Controlling Skin Protection

Science

Mechanism of Action

POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE/POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE/SEBACATE operates by reducing surface tension, enabling the formation of stable emulsions between normally immiscible liquids like oils and water. As a key emulsion stabilizer, it significantly enhances product longevity and consistency. Beyond its emulsifying role, it acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the stratum corneum for improved hydration and a softened skin texture, while also offering a degree of skin protection.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.0001–15%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Guinea pig studies confirmed this ingredient is not a sensitizer. Clinical evaluations further support its excellent tolerability, showing rare instances of allergic reactions or irritation, making it suitable even for sensitive skin. Patent data indicates advantageous use in cosmetic or dermatological preparations at concentrations of 0.0001% to 15% by weight, with a particularly preferred range of 0.05% to 2.5% for optimal performance.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

This ingredient, which is a liquid emulsifier, has been noted as potentially feeding fungal acne. Formulators should consider this when creating products for individuals prone to malassezia-related skin conditions.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This liquid emulsifier is highly valued for its ability to create stable water-in-oil emulsions, even with a remarkably low oil phase (down to 18-20%). It offers robust formulation stability, extends product shelf life, and demonstrates excellent compatibility with high concentrations of silicone oils. Its liquid nature also facilitates cold-processing techniques for water-in-oil formulations. It can function effectively as a primary or co-emulsifier and is often integrated into formulations utilizing vegetable oils.

Synergies

  • High compatibility with silicone oils
  • Effective in formulations based on vegetable oils

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
15%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel has deemed this ingredient safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to prevent irritation. It is widely recognized as free of common irritants and allergens by platforms like SkinSAFE, earning 'SAFE' ratings across various categories including Teen, Lip, Baby, and Eyelid. European Cosmetics Regulation also permits its safe use under stringent guidelines.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE/POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE/SEBACATE is a highly versatile and generally well-tolerated emulsifier and humectant, enhancing formulation stability and skin hydration, though formulators should note its potential to feed fungal acne.

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