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POLYGLYCERYL-3 PENTARICINOLEATE.

Valuable CAS 221354-73-0 / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate is an oil-soluble ester primarily recognized for its efficacy as a water-in-oil emulsifier and stabilizer in diverse cosmetic formulations. Beyond its integral role in product stability, it also acts as a skin conditioning agent and emollient, contributing to improved skin hydration and a refined texture.

Summary

Emulsifying Stabilizing Skin Conditioning Emollient Viscosity Controlling Texture Enhancer Mild Occlusive

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by creating and stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions, effectively bridging incompatible oil and water phases within a formulation. Upon application, it forms a mild occlusive layer on the skin's surface, which significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and thus enhances moisture retention, promoting a hydrated and supple complexion. It also refines product texture, imparting a silkier feel and improving spreadability, while facilitating the uniform dispersion of oil-soluble active ingredients, potentially increasing their epidermal bioavailability.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Concentrations between 3.0% and 5.0% are optimal for achieving superior stability and sensory characteristics in water-in-oil emulsions.
  2. 02 An effective range of 2.0% to 4.0% demonstrates strong water-oil binding capabilities in creams, balms, and body care products.
  3. 03 For products designed for sensitive skin or babies, concentrations maintained below 3.0% are advisable to minimize any potential for irritation.
  4. 04 As a co-emulsifier, approximately 1.0% can enhance texture and overall product stability.
  5. 05 In oil-in-water formulations, 0.5% to 1.0% can be utilized for its film-forming properties.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits excellent stability across a broad pH range from 3.0 to 8.0. This robust emulsifier is resistant to oxidation, thereby maintaining its color and odor integrity throughout a product's shelf life.

Synergies

  • Functions synergistically as a co-emulsifier with other ingredients to enhance texture and overall formulation stability.

Conflicts

  • May not be suitable for formulations specifically targeting Malassezia folliculitis due to its ricinoleic acid base.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used with restrictions
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel deemed Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, within the family of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating. While a specific maximum concentration limit from CIR is not provided, observed usage levels extend up to 5.0%. A closely related compound, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (E476), holds GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) status by the FDA for human consumption and is considered non-toxic and non-sensitizing for topical application, reinforcing a favorable safety profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate is a valuable ingredient, expertly stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions, conditioning the skin, and enhancing product texture, with broad skin compatibility and a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity.

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