Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates as a surfactant, actively reducing the surface tension of liquids to enable the fine mixing of typically immiscible substances, such as oil and water. It functions as a cleansing agent, an emulsifier to create stable product textures, and a solubilizer, facilitating the incorporation of lipophilic components into aqueous systems. As a polyglyceryl ester, it additionally contributes to skin conditioning, potentially forming subtle films that help normalize and hydrate the skin, and may enhance the transdermal penetration of other cosmetic actives.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 A related polyglyceryl caprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate, demonstrated the ability to self-assemble into transparent nanoparticles within an effective concentration range of 2.5-10 wt%. This showed good makeup removal efficacy, particularly against challenging pen eyeliner.
- 02 In a broader assessment, polyglycerol esters (PGEs), the category encompassing POLYGLYCERYL-20 HEXACAPRYLATE, did not induce adverse effects when tested at a 5 wt% concentration.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Polyglycerol fatty acid esters generally exhibit thermal stability below 100 °C under neutral conditions. However, the ester linkage is susceptible to accelerated hydrolysis in acidic or basic environments, and can also be degraded by lipases. The suggested optimal pH range of 5.5-10.0 is derived from studies on related polyglyceryl esters, indicating general stability within these parameters.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed the safety of POLYGLYCERYL-20 HEXACAPRYLATE, along with 273 other polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, in current cosmetic practices and concentrations, provided they are formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. These esters are recognized for being biodegradable, biocompatible, noncarcinogenic, and non-toxic. They are considered a 'green' alternative to PEG-based surfactants, as they avoid the risk of 1,4-dioxane contamination typically above the SCCS-recommended limit of 10 ppm. While not explicitly stated for cosmetic use by the FDA, polyglycerol esters are approved food additives.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
POLYGLYCERYL-20 HEXACAPRYLATE is a valuable, safe, and versatile ingredient, functioning as an effective surfactant, emulsifier, and solubilizer with broad skin compatibility and low irritation potential across diverse cosmetic applications.
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