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POLYGLYCERYL-20 HEPTADECABEHENATE/LAURATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate is a versatile ester that functions primarily as an effective emulsifier, crucial for creating stable and uniform cosmetic formulations. Beyond its structural role, it acts as a skin conditioning agent and emollient, contributing to a perceptibly smooth skin feel, and also provides gentle cleansing benefits.

Summary

emulsifying skin conditioning emollient cleansing agent surfactant

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates fundamentally as an emulsifier, enabling the stable integration of disparate oil and water phases within cosmetic matrices, thereby preventing product separation. On the skin, it conditions and softens the epidermal layer, enhancing tactile smoothness and overall feel. It further contributes as a mild cleansing agent, effectively solubilizing and removing surface impurities and excess sebum without compromising the skin's inherent barrier function. Mechanistic insights from related polyglyceryl laurates suggest additional benefits in promoting skin hydration and facilitating oil dispersion in aqueous systems.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Insufficient-data confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As a key emulsifier, Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate significantly enhances the stability of oil-in-water emulsions, thereby preventing phase separation in complex formulations such as creams and lotions. Its structural class, polyglyceryl esters, are also noted for their compatibility with temperature-sensitive active ingredients, showing no deleterious effects on their stability.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate is safe for use in cosmetic applications, provided the final product is formulated to be non-irritating. This ingredient falls under a broader safety assessment of 274 Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters, further supported by a 2011 CIR assessment deeming a structurally related polyglyceryl-20 ester safe.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Polyglyceryl-20 Heptadecabehenate/Laurate is a valuable ingredient, contributing significantly to formulation stability and skin conditioning, while maintaining a strong safety profile with low irritancy and comedogenicity.

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