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Moumoujus

POLYEPSILON-LYSINE.

Valuable CAS 28211-04-3 / HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

POLYEPSILON-LYSINE is a multifunctional polypeptide recognized for its broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity against skin microbes, including C. acnes. It forms a protective, hydrating film on the skin, aiding in moisture retention and contributing to overall skin health and resilience. Furthermore, it enhances the stability and efficacy of other active ingredients in formulations.

Summary

Antimicrobial Film-forming Hydrating Skin conditioning Stability enhancement Emulsifying Hair conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

Operating through electrostatic interactions, POLYEPSILON-LYSINE disrupts microbial cell surfaces, effectively inhibiting the proliferation of Gram-positive and select Gram-negative bacteria, yeasts, and molds, notably C. acnes. It also functions as a film-former, establishing a breathable barrier on the skin's surface to mitigate transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and lock in vital moisture. Beyond hydration, it acts as a skin conditioner, supports the skin's natural defenses by inducing human beta-defensins, and significantly improves the stability and performance of synergistic ingredients like Vitamin C within formulations.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro studies indicate an optimal concentration of 0.05-0.5 μg/cm² for cellular attachment, with higher concentrations potentially exhibiting toxicity (in vitro context with BHK cells).
  2. 02 Poly-L-lysine vectors significantly enhance the stability and moisturizing efficacy of Vitamin C in dermocosmetic formulations, achieving a notable 66.2% hydration increase with third-generation dendrimers.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

POLYEPSILON-LYSINE, specifically its ε-Polylysine form, is extensively studied and holds GRAS certification from the US FDA, alongside approval by EFSA and WHO as a food additive (E239). Comprehensive safety assessments consistently show no acute toxicity, mutagenicity, reproductive or developmental effects, oncogenicity, or dermal irritation/sensitization, affirming its high safety profile.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The ingredient demonstrates relative stability across a wide pH range and is resilient to heat.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C (enhances stability and moisturizing efficacy)

Conflicts

  • Anionic surfactants (can form water-insoluble complexes)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

ε-Polylysine, a form of POLYEPSILON-LYSINE, has received GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) certification from the US FDA and is approved by EFSA and WHO as a food additive (E239). Extensive safety evaluations, including acute and repeated dose toxicity, mutagenicity, reproductive and developmental studies, oncogenicity, dermal and eye irritation, and human patch tests, have consistently reported no adverse effects, indicating a very low risk of irritation or sensitization.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

POLYEPSILON-LYSINE is a highly valuable, multifaceted ingredient offering significant antimicrobial protection, enhanced skin hydration, and improved formulation stability across a wide range of skin types, supported by an excellent safety profile.

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