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Moumoujus

PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS SEED OIL/OLEIC ACID AMINOPROPANEDIOL AMIDES/ESTERS.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING

This advanced ingredient is a specialized derivative of Sacha Inchi Oil, chemically modified with oleic acid aminopropanediol amides/esters. This complex aims to enhance the delivery and stability of the oil's beneficial fatty acids, offering superior nourishing and skin-strengthening properties. It supports comprehensive skin health by boosting hydration, fortifying the barrier, and providing antioxidant defense.

Summary

Nourishing Moisturizing Antioxidant Skin Barrier Support Anti-aging Skin Firming Skin Elasticity Enhancer Skin Smoothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by delivering a rich profile of nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids, including alpha-linolenic, linoleic, and oleic acids, alongside antioxidant vitamin E. It works to reinforce the natural lipid structures of cell membranes, crucial for skin integrity, and its inherent tocopherols help mitigate free radical damage. By supporting the skin's natural lipid matrix, it effectively replenishes moisture, minimizes transdermal water loss, and strengthens the skin's vital barrier function, potentially aiding in ceramide production. The chemical modification into amides/esters is hypothesized to optimize the bioavailability and stability of these active components, potentially also contributing to a refined sensorial experience.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data available indicates this ingredient is commonly associated with 'dusting' practices where active concentrations are misrepresented.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil is susceptible to oxidative degradation due to its high unsaturated fatty acid content. Formulations should incorporate strategies to minimize oxidation, such as packaging in well-closed, well-filled containers under inert gas, protected from light, and stored in cool, dry conditions. Microencapsulation techniques are also noted to enhance the stability of Sacha Inchi Oil.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

While the specific blend has not been reviewed by CIR or SCCS, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil is broadly recognized as safe for topical application, exhibiting non-toxic, non-sensitizing, and excellent tolerability. It is considered safe for daily use at concentrations between 1% to 5%, with higher levels feasible depending on the final product formulation. The complex ingredient is deemed 'Teen SAFE', 'Lip SAFE', 'Baby SAFE', and 'Eyelid SAFE' by SkinSAFE, and is free from common irritants and allergens including fragrances, parabens, gluten, and soy. Sacha inchi oil also holds a GRN (Generally Recognized as Safe) notice from the FDA for food use.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This complex Sacha Inchi oil derivative is a valuable ingredient, delivering robust moisturizing, antioxidant, and barrier-strengthening benefits with a low risk of irritation or comedogenicity, making it suitable for a wide range of skin types and anti-aging applications.

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