Science
Mechanism of Action
Fermentation transforms and concentrates the intrinsic bioactives of Pleurotus and Rosa Canina. This process yields smaller, more absorbable molecules and increases the content of free phenolic hydroxyl groups, boosting antioxidant and skin-enhancing capabilities. Pleurotus extracts are rich in beta-glucans, proteins, and polyphenols, providing robust antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory support. Rosa Canina contributes vitamin C and additional polyphenols, known for skin conditioning, astringent, and pigment-inhibiting effects. Together, the ferment works to protect against oxidative stress, calm irritation, and promote a more even, healthy complexion.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro research on a related Rosa damascena solid-state fermentation liquid demonstrated significant improvements in skin brightening, antioxidant defense, anti-wrinkle action, and soothing properties. An optimal effect was observed at a 0.5% concentration.
- 02 Studies on Pleurotus eryngii extract indicated excellent efficacy in skin brightening, prevention and improvement of skin damage, and anti-aging benefits, with concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While specific data for the ferment extract is unavailable, related Rosa Canina Fruit Extract and Flower Extract have concentration restrictions in dusting applications. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel advises a maximum of 0.01% for these derivatives in powders, dusting, talcum, and perfumes, to ensure non-irritating and non-sensitizing formulations. Formulators should be mindful of these thresholds when incorporating this ferment into powdered or sprayable products.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability for related Pleurotus pigments has been observed at pH 7.0. As a general principle, fermentation extracts are often sensitive to extreme pH levels, and strong oxidizing or reducing agents should be avoided to maintain ingredient integrity and efficacy.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that various Rosa canina-derived ingredients are safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Specific maximum concentrations include 0.25% for Rosa Canina Fruit Extract in pump hair sprays and 0.01% in powders/perfumes. While no direct safety assessment exists for the combined ferment extract, formulators should be aware of potential allergens (e.g., benzyl alcohol, eugenol) present in related Rosa damascena species, which may require labeling if exceeding specific thresholds (e.g., 0.001% in leave-on products).
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This ferment extract leverages advanced biotechnology to deliver enhanced antioxidant, soothing, and brightening benefits, making it a valuable multi-functional ingredient for diverse skincare formulations.
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