Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract fortifies the skin barrier by enhancing the gene expression of TGM and KRT, which are crucial for maintaining the stratum corneum's integrity and promoting the formation of natural moisturizing factors. It stimulates mitochondrial activity, thereby supporting normal cellular metabolism and conferring anti-aging benefits. Abundant in carotenoids, phenols, flavonoids, tannins, alkaloids, and vitamins (C, B3, B6), the extract functions as a potent antioxidant, efficiently scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) and bolstering the skin's natural antioxidant system. Its Vitamin C content supports collagen production and offers antimicrobial properties, while specific withanolides contribute to its anti-inflammatory effects.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 A 1% concentration of Physalis peruviana L. extract in a cream-based cosmetic formulation demonstrated good stability, remaining free of phase separation. This concentration also contributed to significant sunscreen protection, achieving SPF values ranging from 30 to 60 with UVA/UVB ratios between 0.4 and 1.0.
- 02 In vitro, Physalis seeds extract exhibited a concentration-dependent increase in antioxidant activity, with radical-capturing capacity rising dramatically as concentrations increased from 12.5 µg/ml to 50 µg/ml.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While not commonly dusted in the general sense, the extract in dry powder formulations presents challenges due to high hygroscopicity, reduced flow properties, high cohesivity, and low compressibility.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Extracts can be prepared using water, alcohols, or water-alcohol mixtures. A 1% concentration of the extract has shown good stability in cream-based cosmetic formulations without phase separation. However, higher concentrations of 2% and 3% have been observed to induce phase separation. The fruit juice itself has an acidic pH range of 3.79-3.86.
Safety
Safety Profile
No explicit CIR or SCCS review status is available. Acute oral toxicity studies in rats showed no mortality at doses up to 5000 mg/kg of lyophilized fruit juice, with no observable behavioral, neurological, skin, eye, or mucosal membrane changes. However, high oral doses (5000 mg/kg) of the lyophilized fruit juice were linked to cardiac toxicity in male rats. Dermal toxicity specifically for cosmetic application has not been determined.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Physalis Peruviana Extract is a valuable multi-functional ingredient that enhances skin barrier, provides significant antioxidant and UV protection, and exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for a wide range of precision skincare applications.
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