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Moumoujus

PENTAPEPTIDE-54.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

PENTAPEPTIDE-54 is a potent, skin-identical peptide that actively signals the skin to synthesize crucial extracellular matrix components, including collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. This 'micro-collagen' action significantly improves skin elasticity, firmness, and hydration, leading to a visible reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and a refined skin texture.

Summary

Anti-aging Skin-identical ingredient Wrinkle reducer Collagen booster

Science

Mechanism of Action

This peptide, often referenced interchangeably with related forms like Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (known as 'micro-collagen'), functions by stimulating the skin's natural production of extracellular matrix proteins. It specifically targets the synthesis of elastin, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid, and various collagen types (primarily I, III, and IV). This replenishing action strengthens the skin's structural integrity, enhancing elasticity and firmness while boosting hydration, thereby diminishing the appearance of aging signs.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.0003–0.005%
Optimal

0.005%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and improved skin texture. This efficacy was found to be comparable to 0.07% retinol, with the added benefit of superior skin tolerability.
  2. 02 When applied in a cream twice daily for 28 days, specific studies showed an 18% decrease in fold depth, a 37% decrease in fold thickness, and a 21% increase in skin firmness, particularly around the crow's feet area.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.0003%
Red flag below
0.0003%

PENTAPEPTIDE-54 exhibits clinical efficacy at concentrations as low as 0.0003%. While the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) notes typical usage is often below 0.001% (10 ppm), one study reported more significant benefits at 0.005%. Formulations containing less than 0.0003% are unlikely to deliver noticeable results and may be considered 'dusting'.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 5
0 7 14

Stability

Peptide stability is highly dependent on pH, with optimal conditions typically found within a pH range of 3.0-5.0. Formulating with buffer solutions in this range can reduce degradation pathways such as deamidation and oxidation, and protect disulfide bonds. Additional stability measures include the use of excipients (e.g., amino acids, sugars), co-solvents, limiting air exposure, and protecting from light and high temperatures.

Conflicts

  • Caution is recommended when combining PENTAPEPTIDE-54 with other ingredients, as interactions may alter safety parameters.
  • Safety data for application on damaged or compromised skin is currently unknown.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
0.001%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that related pentapeptides, including Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, and Pentapeptide-4, are safe for use in cosmetic products under current practices of use and concentration. This assessment considered negative human irritation and sensitization data, alongside limited dermal penetration.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PENTAPEPTIDE-54 is a valuable anti-aging peptide, clinically proven to enhance skin firmness, elasticity, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles through potent stimulation of collagen and extracellular matrix components, all while maintaining a favorable safety and tolerability profile across various skin types.

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