Science
Mechanism of Action
This advanced synthetic peptide functions as a matrikine-mimetic, signaling skin cells to enhance the synthesis of six key constituents of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and dermal-epidermal junction. Specifically, it significantly boosts Collagen I (+105%), Collagen III (+104%), Collagen IV (+42%), Fibronectin (+59%), Laminin-5 (+75%), and Hyaluronic acid (+174%). This comprehensive action leads to visibly plumped fine lines, improved skin firmness and elasticity, and a reduction in wrinkle depth, alongside enhanced skin repair and cellular communication.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 In a clinical study, a 2% cream containing this active, applied twice daily for two months, led to a mean reduction in forehead wrinkle volume of 31% and a 28% decrease in cutaneous roughness.
- 02 Further studies using 2% of the active reported wrinkle reduction ranging from 31% up to 100% after two months of daily application.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While the pure peptide itself is effective at extremely low concentrations (CIR noted 0.02% as a potential maximum for the pure substance), clinical studies demonstrating efficacy for Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 (as Matrixyl Synthe'6) consistently utilize 2% of the commercial active ingredient complex. Formulations containing significantly less than 2% of this active complex, particularly below 0.5%, may not deliver the clinically observed benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
PENTAPEPTIDE-38 is stable within an optimal pH range of 4.5 to 6.0; pH levels above 6.5 lead to rapid enzymatic degradation. It is susceptible to oxidation, especially with unbuffered Vitamin C, requiring co-formulation with chelators (like EDTA) and antioxidants (like tocopherols) and storage in opaque containers. It exhibits solubility in water (sparingly in aqueous buffers) and excellent solubility in glycols and organic solvents; for maximal aqueous solubility, prior dissolution in ethanol is advised. Aqueous solutions should not be stored for extended periods.
Conflicts
- pH values above 6.5
- Unbuffered Vitamin C (oxidative stress)
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has not formally reviewed Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, though it was noted in a 2012 literature review. Related peptides have been deemed safe. This peptide is generally considered chemically pure, biodegradable, and non-toxic, with no reported heavy metals or skin/eye irritation. A repeat insult patch test on 55 healthy adults confirmed its gentle nature, indicating a low risk for irritation or allergic contact dermatitis. The listed maximum concentration of 0.02% likely refers to the pure peptide component.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
PENTAPEPTIDE-38 is a valuable peptide for targeted anti-aging, demonstrating strong clinical efficacy in reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture by robustly stimulating essential extracellular matrix components.
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