Science
Mechanism of Action
This peptide acts as a biomimetic of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), binding to the Melanocortin-1 Receptor (MC1-R) located on melanocytes. This interaction directly stimulates melanogenesis, increasing the natural production of melanin responsible for hair and skin color. Concurrently, it enhances catalase expression and activity within hair follicles, effectively reducing oxidative stress by decreasing hydrogen peroxide levels. For the skin, it is reported to fortify the epidermal barrier, minimize transepidermal water loss, improve hydration, and bolster natural defenses against environmental damage.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal stability and efficacy are maintained within a pH range of 4.5 to 7.0. To prevent degradation, it is crucial to incorporate PENTAPEPTIDE-20 into formulations during the cooling phase, at temperatures below 40°C.
Conflicts
- strong oxidizing agents (e.g., peroxides)
- sulfates
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically evaluated PENTAPEPTIDE-20. However, suppliers generally report this peptide as non-sensitizing. Given the lack of formal CIR assessment, patch testing is recommended to confirm individual tolerance, especially for sensitive skin types.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
PENTAPEPTIDE-20 is a valuable biomimetic peptide primarily recognized for stimulating natural hair repigmentation and offering notable skin benefits including enhanced hydration and barrier function.
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References
Sources