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PEG-90/POLYEPSILON CAPROLACTONE.

Valuable CAS - / HUMECTANT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-90/Polyepsilon Caprolactone is a multifaceted copolymer utilized for its emulsifying, humectant, and rheological properties in cosmetic formulations. It effectively stabilizes oil and water mixtures, delivers prolonged hydration to the skin, and improves product texture and spreadability.

Summary

humectant emulsifier surfactant viscosity enhancer solubilizer cleansing agent binding agent softening agent fixative

Science

Mechanism of Action

This amphiphilic copolymer functions uniquely across several domains: as an emulsifier, it significantly lowers interfacial tension, which is crucial for forming stable dispersions of otherwise immiscible oil and water phases. As a humectant, it actively forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, thereby attracting and retaining moisture in the skin. Additionally, it creates a subtle barrier on the skin's surface, diminishing water evaporation and ensuring long-term hydration. Its role as a viscosity enhancer contributes to formulation stability, promotes uniform product spreading, and refines overall texture.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As an amphiphilic copolymer, PEG-90/Polyepsilon Caprolactone forms stable mixed micelles in aqueous media, indicating compatibility with both water and oil phases. The stability of its poly(epsilon-caprolactone) component can be influenced by pH and storage temperature. Refrigeration can stabilize formulations for several months, particularly at lower pH, and the inclusion of buffering agents further enhances stability.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed PEG-containing ingredients, including PEG-90, concluding their safety for cosmetic use, even on damaged skin, a significant update from previous caveats. Furthermore, PEG-90/Polyepsilon Caprolactone has been specifically evaluated by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) of the EU Commission and approved for use under the conditions outlined in Annex III of the EC Cosmetics Regulation, affirming its safety profile.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-90/Polyepsilon Caprolactone is a valuable multifunctional ingredient, enhancing formulation stability and texture through its emulsifying, humectant, and viscosity-modifying properties, backed by a robust safety profile from prominent regulatory bodies.

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