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Moumoujus

PEG-90.

Valuable CAS 25322-68-3 / HUMECTANT, SOLVENT

PEG-90 is a versatile polyethylene glycol polymer that primarily functions as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin to enhance hydration. Beyond its moisturizing capabilities, it also acts as a crucial formulation aid, stabilizing ingredients and refining product texture.

Summary

Humectant Surfactant Emulsifier Viscosity Enhancer Binder Solvent Penetration Enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

PEG-90 operates by forming hydrogen bonds with water molecules, effectively capturing and retaining moisture within the skin, thereby minimizing trans-epidermal water loss. Furthermore, it serves as a surfactant, emulsifier, and viscosity enhancer, contributing to the stability and texture of cosmetic formulations. Its ability to act as a penetration enhancer can also facilitate the delivery of other active ingredients into the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

PEG-90 is not typically subject to dusting analysis as it is a formulation ingredient and humectant, not an active ingredient with a specific clinical dose-response.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-90 enhances formulation stability, promotes uniform spreading, and improves overall texture. It also functions as a binding agent and can stabilize other reactive ingredients within a formulation.

Synergies

  • Penetration enhancement for other active ingredients

Conflicts

  • Severely damaged skin (increases penetration and potential for irritation)
  • Individuals with sensitive skin (potential for mild irritation or allergic reactions)
  • Potential for cross-sensitization with other PEG derivatives

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deems polyethylene glycol ingredients, including PEG-90, safe for cosmetic use. They exhibit low oral and dermal toxicity, are minimally absorbed through intact skin (for PEGs with molecular weights 75 and greater), are minimally irritating, and are not sensitizers, mutagens, or carcinogens. A concentration limit of 25% is supported by studies showing minimal skin irritation. However, a potential concern is contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a byproduct of the ethoxylation manufacturing process.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-90 is a valuable ingredient, prized for its humectant properties and significant formulation benefits, while maintaining a low irritation risk for intact skin.

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