Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates primarily as an emollient and surfactant. On the skin, it forms a semi-occlusive film that effectively reduces transepidermal moisture loss and aids in rehydrating dry skin. This film also creates a protective barrier, facilitating moisture distribution into the stratum corneum. As a surfactant-emulsifier, it lowers surface tension, assisting in the formation of stable emulsions and solubilizing oil-soluble components like fragrances or essential oils in aqueous solutions.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Human assays demonstrated PEG Lanolins, including PEG-85 Lanolin, to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 60%.
- 02 Rabbit ocular irritation tests showed little to no irritation from PEG Lanolins at concentrations up to 100%.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While its parent ingredient, lanolin, has been associated with comedogenicity and potential for contact hypersensitivity in some individuals, PEG-85 Lanolin is an ethoxylated derivative. This modification significantly alters its properties, rendering it generally mild and listed as 'Irritant Free' by SkinSAFE, thus separating it from common concerns associated with raw lanolin.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
PEG Lanolin ingredients exhibit stability within a broad pH range of 2-10. They are nonionic, ensuring broad compatibility with most other solubilizers, including electrolyte solutions up to 10%. To maintain optimal integrity, prolonged heating above 80°C should be avoided.
Synergies
- Compatible with most other solubilizers.
- Tolerates up to 10% electrolyte solutions.
- Aids in the dissolution of fragrances and essential oils.
Conflicts
- Avoid prolonged heating above 80°C.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that PEG Lanolins, including PEG-85 Lanolin, are safe for use in cosmetic products, a conclusion reaffirmed in 2012. Human assays demonstrated non-irritating and non-sensitizing properties at concentrations up to 60%. This derivative is considered mild, distinguishing it from raw lanolin which was designated the '2023 Allergen of the Year' and has reported comedogenic activity. Lanolin is also recognized by the U.S. FDA for use as a food additive and in various OTC drug products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
PEG-85 Lanolin is a valuable ingredient, widely compatible with all skin types, offering reliable emollient and emulsifying properties with a low risk of irritation and sensitization at concentrations up to 60%.
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References
Sources