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PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL PCA ISOSTEARATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

This polyoxyethylene derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, further modified with PCA Isostearate, functions as a highly versatile conditioning agent. It efficiently enhances skin hydration through emollient action while simultaneously stabilizing diverse cosmetic formulations by acting as an effective solubilizer and emulsifier.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant Solubilizer Skin Conditioning Emollient

Science

Mechanism of Action

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate maintains skin health by forming a protective layer, which actively reduces moisture loss and significantly boosts water retention, leading to a perceptibly softer and smoother skin texture. As a surfactant, it effectively lowers surface tension, aiding in the removal of dirt and oils and promoting desirable foam in cleansing products. Its emulsifying and solubilizing properties are critical for ensuring uniform and stable dispersion of otherwise immiscible oil and water phases within formulations.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 3–10%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Optimal emulsification and solubilization properties are observed for PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil in a concentration range of 3-10%.
  2. 02 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil demonstrated only minimal dermal irritation even at concentrations up to 100%.
  3. 03 Formulations containing 20% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil were concluded not to irritate human skin in dermal irritation tests on mice.
  4. 04 A microemulsion gel system with 20.66% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil was studied in rats and found to be non-irritating to the skin.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient, being a non-ionic surfactant, exhibits robust stability across a wide pH range (5.5-7.0), maintaining activity in both acidic and alkaline conditions. Its resistance to oxidation and chemical degradation contributes to extended product shelf life. For formulation, it can be cold-blended into the oil phase at a 3:1 ratio (ingredient to oil) prior to the addition of the water phase. Increased concentrations can also enhance product transparency if cloudiness is present.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel affirmed PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate, along with 130 related PEGylated oils, as safe for use in cosmetic products under current practices and concentrations, provided the final formulations are non-irritating. This assessment supersedes a prior 1997 evaluation. While ethoxylation processes may introduce impurities such as 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide, these are effectively purified from the final ingredient. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil also holds FDA approval as a direct and indirect food additive. No SCCS assessment for this specific ingredient was identified.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate is a highly valuable and well-tolerated ingredient that significantly contributes to skin hydration, cleansing efficacy, and formulation stability across a broad spectrum of cosmetic applications.

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