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PEG-3 COCAMIDE DEA.

Questionable / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-3 COCAMIDE DEA is a non-ionic alkoxylated fatty amide primarily utilized as a surfactant and emulsifier, enabling the stable dispersion of oil and water phases in formulations. It additionally functions as a foam booster, enhancing lather, and can control product viscosity.

Summary

Surfactant Emulsifying Foam Boosting Viscosity Controlling Thickening Hydrating

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by reducing the surface tension between different phases, allowing for the stable emulsification of oil and water components. As a foam booster, it stabilizes air-liquid interfaces, creating richer lather. Being a polyethylene glycol derivative, it may also contribute to skin hydration by attracting and retaining water molecules, thereby potentially reducing transepidermal water loss and offering a mild, pleasant skin feel.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The base compound, Cocamide DEA, exhibits instability at temperatures exceeding 31.6°C (89°F), necessitating storage away from direct heat, light, and water saturation to maintain product integrity. An aqueous solution at 10% concentration typically presents a pH between 9.5 and 10.5, with effective formulation reported at pH 8.9.

Conflicts

  • Nitrosating agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed alkoxylated fatty amides, including PEG-3 COCAMIDE DEA, safe for cosmetic use under specific conditions: formulations must be non-irritating, free diethanolamine (DEA) levels must be minimized, and N-nitroso compound formation must be prevented. Manufacturers are also advised to minimize primary amine and 1,4-dioxane impurities. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has approved the substance, potentially with further restrictions on purity, concentration, or product categories. While the base compound, Cocamide Diethanolamine, holds FDA approval for safety, it is critically important to note that PEG-3 COCAMIDE DEA is listed under California's Proposition 65 as a chemical known to cause cancer, indicating significant safety concerns despite conditional regulatory approval.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

While offering valuable formulation benefits such as emulsification and foam boosting, the classification of PEG-3 COCAMIDE DEA as a known carcinogen by California Proposition 65 presents a significant concern for precision skincare formulations, despite conditional safety assessments by other regulatory bodies.

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