Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient optimizes product characteristics by acting as a viscosity-controlling agent, capable of adjusting thickness and forming gel textures in aqueous formulas. It serves as an emulsifier, enabling the uniform dispersion of immiscible phases, and a stabilizer, protecting formulations from separation and light-induced degradation. On the skin, it contributes to a softened, moisturized feel, strengthens the skin's protective barrier, and may facilitate the deeper delivery of active compounds. As a PEG derivative, it additionally enhances product consistency and offers humectant properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Clinical data predominantly address the safety profile and formulation functionality, rather than specific skin efficacy endpoints. While it effectively creates gel textures and stabilizes emulsions, quantitative studies on its direct skin benefits (e.g., precise moisturizing efficacy at specific concentrations) are not detailed in the provided research.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER is valued as a functional ingredient for its formulation benefits, such as viscosity control and stabilization, rather than for direct 'dusted' active claims in marketing.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient, a white to light yellow powder, maintains stability across a wide pH spectrum of 2-10. For integration into formulations, it should be dispersed in the water phase and gently heated to melt, ensuring temperatures do not exceed 80°C. Optimal storage is at room temperature (25-40°C) in a tightly sealed container, shielded from sunlight or heat, ensuring a shelf life of at least 3 years.
Synergies
- Exhibits good compatibility with polyols.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) deems this ingredient safe for use, noting the absence of residual hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) (<20 ppm) in tested batches. It demonstrated no genotoxicity and exhibited no dermal irritation or allergic contact sensitization in Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT). Guinea pig irritation assays further confirmed its non-irritant status at concentrations up to 30%. Ocular studies (BCOP assay score of ~2.74, indicative of non-irritancy) support its mild profile. While generally well-tolerated across all skin types, a patch test is recommended for individuals with highly sensitive skin due to the rare potential for allergic reactions.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER is a valuable and well-tolerated ingredient, indispensable for its functional roles in optimizing cosmetic product texture, stability, and delivery across all skin types.
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References
Sources