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Moumoujus

PEG-23 GLYCERYL DISTEARATE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

PEG-23 Glyceryl Distearate is a multifunctional ingredient recognized for its robust skin-supporting capabilities, acting as both an emollient and a sophisticated enhancer of skin barrier function. It works to soften and smooth the skin while actively promoting internal mechanisms for improved hydration and resilience.

Summary

Skin conditioning Emollient Surfactant Emulsifying Cleansing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This compound operates through several pathways to support skin health. It can form niosome structures, potentially facilitating enhanced delivery of other active ingredients into the skin. Crucially, it upregulates key molecular markers involved in epidermal barrier formation and moisture retention, including filaggrin, loricrin, aquaporin 3, and hyaluronan synthase 3. Furthermore, it activates the Nrf2 pathway, thereby enhancing the skin's endogenous antioxidant defenses, contributing to a more resilient and hydrated complexion. As a surfactant, it also assists in emulsifying and cleansing formulations.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 A study at 2% concentration demonstrated significant upregulation of mRNA expression for genes critical to stratum corneum integrity (filaggrin, loricrin), moisture retention (aquaporin 3, hyaluronan synthase 3), and intercellular lipid synthesis (ceramide synthase, sulfotransferase 2B1, peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor α) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). This also enhanced endogenous antioxidant function via Nrf2 activation and improved both epidermal barrier function and moisture retention in a 3D epidermal model, suggesting potential benefits for conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and ichthyosis.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5.5 – 5.6
0 7 14

Stability

A 2% aqueous solution of PEG-23 Glyceryl Distearate exhibits stability within an approximate pH range of 5.5-5.6. Polyethylene glycols are generally well-tolerated by the skin and possess inherent microbiological stability, which often mitigates the need for additional preservation.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that PEG diesters, including PEG distearates, are safe for cosmetic use when properly formulated to be non-irritating. It is noted that lower molecular weight PEGs may be more readily absorbed through compromised skin. Potential manufacturing impurities, such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, are acknowledged but generally controlled.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-23 Glyceryl Distearate is a valuable ingredient that significantly supports skin barrier function and hydration through gene upregulation and antioxidant activation, while also providing emollient and cleansing benefits.

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