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PEG-20 STEARATE.

Valuable CAS 9004-99-3 / HUMECTANT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-20 Stearate is a polyoxyethylene derivative of stearic acid, serving as a multifunctional ingredient that primarily acts as an emulsifier to stabilize oil-in-water formulations. It also contributes mild surfactant properties for cleansing and enhances skin hydration through its humectant capabilities, improving product texture and consistency.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant/Cleansing Humectant Viscosity Controlling

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions principally as an emulsifying agent, critical for creating stable and uniform mixtures of immiscible oil and water phases, thereby ensuring a consistent product texture and smooth application. As a surfactant, it facilitates skin cleansing by enabling water to effectively mix with and remove oil and dirt. The polyethylene glycol component imparts humectant properties, attracting and retaining moisture to support skin hydration. Additionally, it improves the tactile qualities of formulations, lending a smooth feel, and can serve as a lubricant. In some instances, it may also aid in the dermal absorption of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range ≤10.1%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical studies by the CIR Expert Panel confirm PEG Stearates, including PEG-20 Stearate, are neither irritants nor sensitizers, even at concentrations of 25% or greater.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

PEG-20 Stearate offers essential functional benefits as an emulsifier, surfactant, and humectant, making its inclusion in formulations purposeful rather than superfluous.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-20 Stearate demonstrates robust stability against heat, acids, and bases, maintaining its integrity across a wide pH range. A 1% aqueous solution registers a pH between 5.0 and 7.5. It exhibits low vapor pressure and minimal chemical reactivity, ensuring broad compatibility with diverse cosmetic ingredients and contributing to increased viscosity and stability in complex formulations.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10.1%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel has consistently concluded that PEG-20 Stearate is safe for use in cosmetics, with reaffirmations as recent as 2024. It presents minimal ocular or dermal irritation and low acute/chronic toxicities, with limited skin penetration. A consideration remains regarding potential manufacturing impurities such as ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, recognized as possible carcinogens. Individuals with exceptionally sensitive skin are advised to perform a patch test prior to full application.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-20 Stearate is a valuable ingredient for its multifunctional role in stabilizing emulsions, enhancing texture, and providing mild humectant properties, all while maintaining a strong safety profile for most skin types.

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