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Moumoujus

PEG-20 DISTEARATE.

Valuable CAS 9005-08-7 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-20 Distearate is a polyethylene glycol diester of stearic acid, functioning as a versatile ingredient critical for product stability and texture. It primarily acts as an effective emulsifier, solubilizer for water-insoluble ingredients, and a potent viscosity enhancer in cosmetic formulations.

Summary

solubilizer emulsifier thickener emollient opacifying agent conditioning agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates by reducing surface tension, enabling the formation of stable oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions and facilitating the homogenous integration of lipophilic substances into aqueous systems. It significantly modulates product rheology by increasing viscosity, while also imparting emollient and conditioning effects that enhance the overall sensory feel and appearance of the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-20 Distearate is susceptible to hydrolysis in hot alkaline solutions and can undergo saponification when exposed to strong acids or bases. Formulators should anticipate potential discoloration or precipitation when combining it with salicylates, phenolic substances, iodine salts, or salts of bismuth, silver, and tannins. Additionally, complex formation with certain preservatives may occur. For optimal integration, heat PEG-20 Distearate with other surfactants to 60°C until fully melted, then blend into the water phase at 35°C with continuous stirring, adjusting pH as needed.

Conflicts

  • hot alkaline solutions (hydrolysis)
  • strong acids (saponification)
  • strong bases (saponification)
  • salicylates (discoloration/precipitation)
  • phenolic substances (discoloration/precipitation)
  • iodine salts (discoloration/precipitation)
  • salts of bismuth (discoloration/precipitation)
  • salts of silver (discoloration/precipitation)
  • tannins (discoloration/precipitation)
  • preservatives (complex formation)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded PEG distearates, including PEG-20 Distearate, as safe for use in cosmetic products in their 1999 assessment. Studies on intact skin demonstrated no evidence of systemic toxicity or sensitization. While the CIR panel designated it as safe at concentrations up to 5.0%, typical industry concentrations can range from 0.5% to 50%. The FDA also recognizes Polyethylene glycol distearate under regulations for indirect food additives.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-20 Distearate is a valuable and safe ingredient, playing a crucial role in enhancing formulation stability, texture, and sensory attributes across numerous personal care applications, with a low risk of sensitization.

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References

Sources