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PEG-18 GLYCERYL OLEATE/COCOATE.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate is a versatile non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier, derived from natural coconut oil and oleic acid. It significantly enhances the stability and texture of cosmetic formulations, while also providing beneficial skin-conditioning and moisturizing properties.

Summary

emulsifying skin-conditioning thickening solubilizer surfactant moisture retention

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates by effectively emulsifying oil and water, leading to smooth, homogeneous mixtures. Functioning as a Newtonian thickening agent, it improves product viscosity and spreadability for a refined sensory experience. On the skin, it conditions by contributing to a 'refatting' effect that softens and moisturizes. It also aids in moisture retention by forming hydrogen bonds with water molecules, thereby supporting long-term hydration and reducing water evaporation. Additionally, it acts as a solubilizer, facilitating the integration of fragrances and essential oils into aqueous systems, and assists in dissolving oil or grease on hair and scalp.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1.5–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) in 1999, reaffirmed in 2014, established a safe use concentration for rinse-off products and up to 10% in leave-on products, based on ocular and sensitization data. This range is also noted for effective thickening and stabilization.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No data indicates this liquid ingredient is commonly associated with dusting during formulation.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This low-viscosity liquid is easy to handle and suitable for cold process formulations, allowing incorporation at any stage. For optimal performance and skin compatibility, it is recommended for use in SLES-free preparations, ideally within the skin's natural pH range of 4.5-5.5.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

Reviewed by the CIR in 1999 and reconfirmed in 2014, PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate is deemed safe for use in rinse-off products and at concentrations up to 10% in leave-on products, a limit based on ocular and sensitization data. While small amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, may occur, manufacturers can control this through purification. Caution is advised for use on compromised or non-intact skin.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate is a valuable ingredient for its dual benefits, significantly improving formulation aesthetics and stability while simultaneously providing gentle conditioning and hydration to the skin across various product types.

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