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PEG-150/STEARYL ALCOHOL/SMDI COPOLYMER.

Valuable / FILM FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

This hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) polymer serves as a versatile nonionic associative thickener and film-forming agent in skincare formulations. It enhances product texture and stability while creating a breathable film on the skin for conditioning and protection.

Summary

film-forming viscosity controlling associative thickener conditioning moisturizing protecting stabilizer

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functioning as a nonionic associative thickener, this copolymer forms a network structure by enabling its hydrophobic segments to associate with other hydrophobic components within a formulation. This interaction effectively increases viscosity and stabilizes the product. Additionally, it forms a flexible, breathable film on the skin, contributing to conditioning, long-lasting hydration, and protection against environmental stressors.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Low confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 2 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

The copolymer maintains robust stability across a wide pH spectrum, specifically from pH 2 to 12. It exhibits broad compatibility with various organic ingredients, including nonionic, anionic, zwitterionic, and cationic surfactants, as well as peroxides and other oxidizing agents. It is cold-processable and does not necessitate neutralization. For improved handling and dispersion, it can be gently heated up to 75°C, requiring slow and steady addition to prevent premature thickening or gelling.

Synergies

  • Nonionic surfactants
  • Anionic surfactants
  • Zwitterionic surfactants
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Peroxides
  • Oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deemed PEG-150 Stearate, a component of this copolymer, safe for cosmetic use under current concentration practices. The copolymer itself, exemplified by ACULYN™ 46N, possesses a well-established toxicological profile, indicating safety in normal applications. Studies in rabbits and guinea pigs have characterized it as non-toxic via single oral and dermal exposure, non-irritating to skin and eyes, and a non-sensitizer. However, EWG notes the potential for trace contamination by impurities like ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, particularly in inhalable forms, though it is permissible in EWG VERIFIED products with usage restrictions. The FDA has approved related ingredients for general or specific limited use in food applications.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-150/STEARYL ALCOHOL/SMDI COPOLYMER is a valuable ingredient that effectively thickens and stabilizes formulations across a wide pH range, while also forming a breathable film for enhanced skin hydration and protection.

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