Science
Mechanism of Action
As a hydrophobically-modified ethoxylated urethane (HEUR) polymer, this ingredient operates by forming an intricate network structure through the self-association of its hydrophobic segments, effectively increasing a formulation's viscosity. Concurrently, it creates a continuous, flexible, and breathable film on the skin or hair surface. This film provides benefits such as prolonged hydration and protection against external stressors. Additionally, it aids in stabilizing hydrophobic components and ensuring uniform dispersion of particulates within a formulation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient demonstrates exceptional stability across a broad pH spectrum, maintaining efficacy from pH 2 to 12. It is highly compatible with a wide array of surfactant systems, including anionic, cationic, nonionic, and zwitterionic chemistries, as well as formulations containing acids and peroxides. It is cold-processable and can be heated up to 75°C to facilitate dispersion. Furthermore, it exhibits good salt tolerance and is non-hygroscopic, contributing to stable products with desirable near-Newtonian rheology for smooth dispensing.
Synergies
- Anionic surfactants
- Cationic surfactants
- Nonionic surfactants
- Zwitterionic surfactants
- Acids
- Peroxides
Safety
Safety Profile
With a comprehensive toxicological profile, this ingredient is deemed safe for its intended cosmetic applications. Acute oral and dermal toxicity tests indicate non-toxicity, and it has been shown to be non-irritating in rabbit skin and eye studies. It is confirmed as a non-sensitizer and non-mutagenic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that similar PEG diesters are safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating. It holds approvals from major global chemical inventories and is recognized as safe for specific, limited food uses by the U.S. FDA.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This versatile copolymer is a valuable ingredient, significantly enhancing product texture and stability while providing beneficial film-forming properties for skin hydration and protection across various product categories.
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References
Sources