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PEG-120 METHYL GLUCOSE DIOLEATE.

Valuable CAS 86893-19-8 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate is a sophisticated non-ionic ingredient prized for its ability to precisely control viscosity, stabilize complex formulations, and act as a gentle surfactant. It also provides skin-conditioning benefits by enhancing moisture retention and supporting the skin's barrier function.

Viscosity Controlling Emulsifying Surfactant Emollient Skin Barrier Enhancer Moisture Retention Formulation Stabilizer Irritation Reduction Anti-Aging

Science

This ingredient functions as a highly effective non-ionic thickener, surfactant, and emulsifier. It achieves viscosity control through an associative mechanism, where its hydrophobic segments interact with other hydrophobic components within the formulation. On the skin, it forms a protective barrier layer that significantly reduces moisture loss and enhances water retention, promoting softer and healthier skin. It also acts as an emollient, penetrating the stratum corneum to actively prevent dehydration. As a surfactant, it effectively cleanses by helping to remove impurities, excess oil, and makeup without imparting dryness. Furthermore, it plays a crucial role in stabilizing formulations, preventing the separation of oil and water-based ingredients, and may contribute to anti-aging by strengthening the skin's barrier and potentially reducing the appearance of fine lines.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical data indicates effective thickening properties in surfactant and emulsion systems when used between 0.5% and 3.0%.
  2. 02 Studies show a remarkable ability to reduce the overall irritation potential of formulations, evidenced by 0% eye irritation test results.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

This non-ionic ingredient is stable across a broad pH range of 4.0 to 9.0, eliminating the need for neutralization during formulation. For optimal incorporation, it is recommended to add it to a heated water phase (50-60°C) and mix until fully dissolved, taking care to avoid overheating above 80°C. While generally robust, some sources suggest potential susceptibility to hydrolysis or oxidation under strongly acidic or alkaline conditions.

Conflicts

  • strong acid
  • strong alkali

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
15%
Sensitization risk Low

Approved by both the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate is considered safe for application on unbroken skin. Its high molecular weight restricts skin absorption, contributing to its classification as a non-irritant, with low irritancy and comedogenicity ratings. However, isolated instances of mild skin irritation, dryness, or allergic reactions may occur in highly sensitive individuals or those with specific allergies. Critically, it should not be used on broken or irritated skin, as studies involving severe burn patients treated with a related compound indicated kidney toxicity. The maximum recommended use concentration for related methyl gluceth compounds in rinse-off products is 15%.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient, esteemed for its precise thickening and stabilizing capabilities in formulations, alongside its proven ability to reduce irritation and enhance skin hydration across all skin types.


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