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PEG-120 GLYCERYL STEARATE.

Valuable CAS - / SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

PEG-120 Glyceryl Stearate is a versatile non-ionic emulsifier and viscosity enhancer, crucial for creating stable oil-in-water emulsions in skincare formulations. It effectively blends disparate oil and water phases, contributing to a desirable product texture and feel.

Summary

Emulsifying Viscosity increasing (aqueous)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions primarily as a surfactant and emulsifier, significantly lowering the surface tension between different phases to integrate oil and water components smoothly into stable emulsions. It also serves as a thickening agent for aqueous formulations and can aid in solubilizing other ingredients. As a polyethylene glycol (PEG) derivative, it may act as a vehicle to facilitate the delivery of other ingredients into the skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 The CIR Expert Panel concluded that PEG-120 Stearate, as part of the PEG Stearates group, is safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 10%.
  2. 02 Clinical assessments of related PEG Stearates demonstrated nonallergenic properties at concentrations of 25% and 50% in petrolatum, and were found to be non-irritating in patch tests.
  3. 03 Formulation guidelines for related emulsifier blends (e.g., Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate) suggest usage between 1% for fluid lotions and 25% for thick creams, depending on desired consistency.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

As a non-ionic emulsifier, PEG-120 Glyceryl Stearate is stable and compatible across a broad pH range of approximately 4.0 to 9.0. Optimal dispersion is achieved by incorporating it into the oil phase during manufacturing, particularly when oils are heated above 60°C, ensuring seamless integration with most cosmetic and pharmaceutical raw materials.

Conflicts

  • Can potentially enhance the penetration of other ingredients, including undesirable compounds, into the skin.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel confirmed PEG Stearates, including PEG-120 Stearate, are safe for use in cosmetics at current concentrations and practices. The panel removed a previous caution regarding use on damaged skin. Manufacturers are advised to control potential contamination by impurities such as 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide through rigorous purification steps.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-120 Glyceryl Stearate is a valuable, well-tolerated emulsifier and thickener, essential for developing stable and aesthetically pleasing skincare and cosmetic formulations.

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