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PEG-12 ISOSTEARATE.

Valuable CAS 56002-14-3 / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-12 Isostearate is a versatile polyethylene glycol diester functioning primarily as an emulsifier and solubilizer, crucial for creating stable cosmetic formulations. Beyond its structural role, it offers direct benefits as a skin conditioner and humectant, promoting moisture retention and enhancing the delivery of other active ingredients.

Summary

emulsifying solubilizer conditioner humectant penetration enhancer

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a polyethylene glycol diester of isostearic acid, PEG-12 Isostearate operates to reduce interfacial tension, enabling immiscible liquids like oil and water to form stable emulsions. It also acts as a solubilizer, facilitating the incorporation of poorly soluble compounds into aqueous solutions. When applied to the skin, it conditions and acts as a humectant, contributing to moisture retention through a mild occlusive effect, while also enhancing the penetration and bioavailability of other cosmetic actives.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A recommended usage rate between 1% and 10% has been established for various cosmetic formulations.
  2. 02 For makeup remover products, a safe and effective concentration range of 5% to 10% is advised.
  3. 03 Clinical studies involving the broader class of PEG Stearates, including PEG-12 Stearate, demonstrated no irritating or sensitizing effects at concentrations reaching up to 25%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

PEG-12 Isostearate exhibits robust stability across a broad pH range of 4.0 to 8.0 and demonstrates superior compatibility with diverse cosmetic actives and pigments. However, to maintain its integrity, direct heat exposure above 80°C should be avoided.

Synergies

  • Superior compatibility with a wide array of cosmetic actives and pigments enhances formulation versatility.

Conflicts

  • Avoid exposure to temperatures exceeding 80°C during formulation or storage.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that PEG Diesters, including related compounds such as PEG-12 dioleate and PEG-12 Stearate, are safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and within current practice concentrations. The CIR broadly affirms the safety of general PEG ingredients in cosmetic products. Manufacturers are advised to control impurities like 1,4-dioxane through stringent purification processes. Given its recognized ability to enhance the penetration of other compounds, particular care must be taken when formulating with ingredients whose safety relies on minimal dermal absorption. EWG lists this ingredient as 'Restricted' due to concerns over potential contamination from ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, necessitating adequate substantiation for its inclusion in EWG VERIFIED products.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-12 Isostearate is a valuable multi-functional ingredient for cosmetic formulations, offering excellent emulsifying, solubilizing, and conditioning benefits, but requires careful formulation to manage potential impurity concerns and its penetration-enhancing properties.

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