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PEG-12 DIISOSTEARATE.

Valuable / SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PEG-12 Diisostearate is a versatile non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier, essential for blending oil and water phases in cosmetic formulations. It also functions as an emollient, providing a smooth skin feel, and acts as a solubilizer for various ingredients.

Summary

Emulsifier Surfactant Emollient Solubilizer Conditioning agent Penetration enhancer Consistency enhancer Binding agent Softening agent Fixative

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates as a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier due to its distinct molecular structure, featuring a hydrophobic segment that interacts with oils and a hydrophilic segment that readily emulsifies with water. This dual action allows it to effectively solubilize oily substances, such as waterproof makeup, facilitating a clean rinse without leaving a greasy residue. Beyond its emulsifying capabilities, it delivers emollient benefits, imparting a non-greasy, silky texture to the skin, and can enhance the penetration of other active ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

5-10% for makeup removers

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrates high efficacy in dissolving and washing off makeup residues, including waterproof formulations, without imparting a greasy feel. This range is specifically recommended for makeup remover products.
  2. 02 Utilized broadly across cosmetic formulations for its emollient and solubilizing properties.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains robust stability within a pH range of 4.0 to 8.0 and retains performance effectiveness at temperatures up to 80°C. It exhibits excellent compatibility with a wide array of cosmetic active ingredients and pigments.

Synergies

  • Compatible with various cosmetic actives
  • Compatible with pigments

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Max tested
10%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has determined that PEG diesters, including PEG-12 Diisostearate, are safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to ensure they are non-irritating. The maximum recommended concentration is 10%. While generally regarded as safe, potential concerns regarding contaminants like ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane exist if products do not adhere to stringent safety guidelines. This ingredient is acceptable in EWG VERIFIED products, provided it meets specified use restrictions and warnings. PEG compounds with an average molecular weight of 6,000 are approved for use as food additives.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Unknown
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PEG-12 Diisostearate is a valuable ingredient for its multifunctional properties as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and emollient, demonstrating high efficacy in makeup removal and general formulation stability when used within its established safe concentration limits.

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