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PCA GLYCERYL OLEATE.

Valuable CAS 84608-82-2 / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

PCA Glyceryl Oleate is a naturally-derived conditioning agent, synthesized from vegetable glycerin, oleic acid, and pyrrolidonic carboxylic acid (PCA). It effectively rehydrates and protects the skin by restoring its natural lipid barrier, while also mitigating irritation from cleansing agents.

Summary

Emollient Moisturizing Skin-conditioning Hair-conditioning Antistatic Film-forming Refatting Surfactant

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient works by mimicking the skin's natural lipid structure through its oleic acid component, which helps replenish the protective hydrolipidic film. Its specific molecular structure allows it to acquire a natural cationic charge below pH 5.5, enabling it to bind effectively to negatively charged skin surfaces. In skin care, it functions as an emollient, re-fatting agent, and film-former, promoting softness, smoothness, and enhanced hydration. Additionally, it acts as an amino acid-based lipophilic nonionic surfactant, reducing irritation caused by other cleansing agents.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–2%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 At concentrations from 0.1% to 2.0%, PCA Glyceryl Oleate significantly reduces irritation from surfactants in cleaning products, enhancing comfort of use. It restores the skin's hydrolipidic film, reducing dryness and tightness, thereby strengthening the skin barrier, improving hydration, and reducing transepidermal water loss.
  2. 02 In skin care, it acts as a non-greasy film-former, leaving skin soft, smooth, and elastic. While specific optimal percentages vary by application (e.g., 0.5-1.0% for shampoos, 1.5-2.0% for shower gels, and 0.5% for leave-in conditioners), its general conditioning and barrier-supportive benefits are observed across the 0.1-2.0% range.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

PCA Glyceryl Oleate is an active ingredient with well-documented benefits in skin and hair conditioning, barrier restoration, and irritation reduction.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 3 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

PCA Glyceryl Oleate maintains stability within a pH range of 3 to 8, becoming cationic below pH 5.5. It demonstrates compatibility with all common tensides/surfactants. For incorporation, it can be added to the oil phase, after emulsification, or directly to surfactants at temperatures up to 60°C. It can be processed cold or hot. Optimal storage conditions are between 23-25°C, not exceeding 32°C, and freezing should be avoided. While predominantly oil-soluble and lipophilic, one source indicated water solubility, though this contradicts the majority of data.

Synergies

  • Compatible with common surfactants/tensides

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
2%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has determined glyceryl monoesters, including PCA Glyceryl Oleate, to be safe for use in cosmetic products up to a maximum concentration of 2.0%. It receives an EWG safety grade of 1, signifying low risk and generally good tolerance, even by sensitive skin. However, it carries an H317 warning, indicating a potential to cause an allergic skin reaction in some individuals.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

PCA Glyceryl Oleate is a valuable, naturally-derived ingredient that significantly improves skin hydration, reinforces the skin barrier, and minimizes irritation, making it particularly beneficial for dry and sensitive skin types.

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