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PALMITOYLOXYCAPROYL PALMITOYLOXYCAPRAMIDE MEA.

Valuable CAS 1597432-39-7 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN PROTECTING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

PALMITOYLOXYCAPROYL PALMITOYLOXYCAPRAMIDE MEA is a biomimetic moisturizing polymer engineered to closely mimic the phospholipid membranes naturally found in skin cells. It effectively forms a thin, water-resistant film on the skin's surface, significantly enhancing the barrier function and preventing transepidermal water loss. This advanced ingredient offers comprehensive hydration and soothing benefits for compromised skin.

Summary

moisturizing film-forming barrier-enhancing soothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This biomimetic polymer, also known as Polyquaternium-51 (trade name Lipidure-PMB), operates by creating a protective, water-resistant layer that adheres to the skin. This layer functions to reduce hydration evaporation, thereby decreasing Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and improving the structural integrity of the stratum corneum. Its adaptive moisturizing capabilities ensure sustained hydration, helping to smooth rough skin texture and mitigate the effects of environmental aggressors and potential irritants.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.2–5%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated excellent water-holding capacity, comparable to sodium hyaluronate.
  2. 02 Application in a cream twice daily for 2 weeks significantly improved rough skin by reducing desquamation of the horny layer.
  3. 03 Reduced irritation when combined with 30% AHA in a patch test.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted

The ingredient's stability notes advise against dusting, indicating that it can form airborne particles. Proper handling to avoid dusting is recommended to ensure safety and maintain product integrity.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Stable under normal conditions, but storage requires care: containers should be upright, tightly closed, and kept in a cool location away from direct sunlight. Exposure to heat, flame, other ignition sources, and dusting should be avoided, as decomposition may yield carbon dioxide, water, and methacrylate by-products.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

PALMITOYLOXYCAPROYL PALMITOYLOXYCAPRAMIDE MEA demonstrates a high safety profile, evidenced by an oral LD50 (Rat) exceeding 2,000 mg/Kg and negative results in Ames, skin sensitization, and primary irritant tests. It is practically non-stimulative to rabbit eye mucosa. This ingredient is approved as an additive for Urea Cream, Eye Drop, and Quasi-drug Grade Medical Lotion by PMDA (Japan) and is listed in China's International Cosmetic Ingredient Standard Chinese Name Directory (2014).

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This biomimetic ingredient is highly valuable for its proven ability to significantly enhance skin hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and provide soothing benefits across various skin types, supported by robust safety data and clinical efficacy.

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