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PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-20.

Valuable CAS - / ANTIOXIDANT

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 is a biomimetic lipo-peptide designed to address hair greying by stimulating the natural pigmentation process within the hair follicle. Beyond its targeted hair benefits, this ingredient also offers antioxidant protection and contributes to enhanced skin hydration and barrier function.

Summary

Antioxidant Hair-conditioning Skin-conditioning Melanogenesis Stimulator Anti-Greying Agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

This peptide operates by mimicking α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), binding specifically to the Melanocortin-1 Receptor (MC1-R) located on melanocytes in the hair bulb. This binding actively stimulates melanogenesis, increasing melanin production and improving its transfer to keratinocytes, thereby working to prevent and reverse hair greying. Furthermore, it functions as an antioxidant by enhancing catalase expression and activity, which effectively reduces intracellular hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) levels by up to 30%, mitigating oxidative stress. For broader skin benefits, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 also promotes the skin's natural synthesis of collagen and elastin, aiding in improved hydration, moisture retention, and strengthening the skin's protective barrier, while also upregulating SIRT1 activity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.001–0.5%
Optimal

0.01%

Key findings

  1. 01 In a 3-month clinical study with 15 male volunteers, daily application in a lotion enhanced catalase expression, reduced intracellular H2O2 levels by 30%, activated melanogenesis, and preserved follicular melanocyte function, leading to reduced hair greying.
  2. 02 Increased hair pigmentation by 52% in ex vivo studies over an 8-day period.
  3. 03 Increased hair pigmentation by 66% in ex vivo studies over an 8-day period.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Specific data regarding 'dusting' of this ingredient is not available in the provided research, therefore it is not identified as commonly dusted.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal stability and efficacy are achieved within a pH range of 4.5–6.5. This ingredient should be incorporated during the cooling phase of formulation, at temperatures strictly below 40°C, to prevent degradation. Exposure to high temperatures (>40°C), UV radiation, and harsh solvents should be avoided. For enhanced scalp penetration, utilizing delivery systems such as liposomes or nanoemulsions is recommended. Products containing Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 should be packaged in opaque, airless pump bottles to protect against light and oxidation, preserving its integrity.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizers (e.g., peroxides)
  • sulfates

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has concluded that Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20, among other related peptides, is safe for use as a cosmetic ingredient at its current concentrations, provided the final formulation is non-irritating. It is generally considered non-sensitizing and scalp-friendly, with patch testing recommended to confirm non-irritation for individual formulations.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
No Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 is a valuable peptide, primarily for its proven ability to stimulate natural hair pigmentation and reduce greying, while also providing significant antioxidant and general skin-conditioning benefits.

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