Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a cell-communicating protein, with SH-Polypeptide-1 (EGF) stimulating the growth, proliferation, and differentiation of epidermal cells. It actively promotes skin repair mechanisms, enhances microvascular formation, and triggers the release of various rejuvenating growth factors, facilitating wound healing without significant scarring. Furthermore, it boosts the synthesis of vital extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Oligopeptide-91 contributes to overall skin conditioning by signaling the skin's inherent repair pathways.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 A 2012 study on a serum containing barley bioengineered sh-Oligopeptide-1 observed statistically significant improvements in fine lines, skin texture, pore size, and various dyschromatic conditions within one month, with benefits continuing over three months.
- 02 A 2021 systematic review of EGF studies indicated that topical EGF serum applied twice daily for 8 weeks reduced melasma in 73% of subjects, without reported side effects. Additionally, an EGF cream diminished inflammatory acne lesions by 33.5% over six weeks in a study involving 20 subjects.
- 03 While some clinical trials have shown sh-Oligopeptide-1 to aid wound healing post-laser treatment in diabetic patients and manage Senile purpura, a 2023 review article by Martínez-Carpio concludes that clinical studies on sh-oligopeptide-1 lack a scientific foundation due to unproven preclinical bioactivity.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The EGF component is highly sensitive to pH, requiring product formulations to maintain a pH range of 5-8. To preserve integrity, microbial contamination must be rigorously avoided during processing, as enzymes from microorganisms can decompose the peptide.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has not specifically evaluated OLIGOPEPTIDE-91 SH-POLYPEPTIDE-1, nor has the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). The China National Drug Administration advises against using sh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF) in cosmetics, citing its large molecular weight which hinders absorption through an intact skin barrier and raises potential safety concerns if the barrier is compromised. They classify active EGF as a potent unauthorized drug, not a cosmetic ingredient. Although sh-EGF is authorized in some regions at various concentrations, its long-term safety profile remains unknown. Sh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF) is mitogenic, meaning it stimulates cell proliferation, but it is not mutagenic in healthy cells. However, significant caution is advised for individuals with existing cancerous cells, elevated skin cancer risk, or psoriasis, as EGF could potentially promote the spread of cancerous cells or exacerbate psoriasis.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
While OLIGOPEPTIDE-91 SH-POLYPEPTIDE-1 demonstrates promising clinical benefits for skin renewal and repair, significant regulatory warnings regarding absorption and classification, coupled with unknown long-term risks and specific contraindications for certain health conditions, necessitate extreme caution and a re-evaluation for precision skincare applications.
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