Science
Mechanism of Action
This single-chain synthetic fusion peptide's primary action derives from its core component, Oligopeptide-1 (also known as sh-Oligopeptide-1 or Epidermal Growth Factor/EGF). It functions as a potent skin-conditioning agent, precisely mimicking the skin's intrinsic growth factors to stimulate the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells. This mechanism is intended to boost endogenous collagen synthesis, improve skin elasticity, and visibly diminish the appearance of fine lines. Furthermore, it supports cellular regeneration for skin repair, contributes to hydration, helps mitigate inflammation, and reinforces the skin's barrier function. Broader oligopeptide characteristics suggest benefits such as anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and skin tone evening effects through regulation of key biological pathways.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 A 2012 study, indirectly cited via INCIDecoder, investigating a serum containing barley bioengineered sh-Oligopeptide-1 (a component related to this ingredient) reported statistically significant improvements across several parameters. These included a reduction in fine lines and rhytids, enhanced skin texture, decreased pore size, and improvement in various dyschromatic conditions, with observed benefits emerging within one month and progressing over a three-month duration.
- 02 A comprehensive 2023 review questioned the scientific validity of clinical studies on sh-oligopeptide-1, asserting a lack of proven preclinical bioactivity for this molecule. The review also noted that while sh-EGF is authorized in cosmetics at various concentrations, its long-term risks remain undefined, and active EGF is considered an unauthorized drug for medical treatments.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
OLIGOPEPTIDE-107 RH-POLYPEPTIDE-1 is explicitly classified as a PROHIBITED INGREDIENT by the European Union (Restriction II/416). This regulatory status indicates that its use in cosmetic formulations within markets adhering to EU regulations is disallowed, thereby precluding it from being commonly included or 'dusted' in responsibly formulated products. While supplier recommendations for a component (Oligopeptide-1) refer to solution concentrations, these do not translate to effective concentrations for the fusion peptide in a finished product, particularly in light of its prohibited status.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This peptide exhibits high sensitivity to pH, with an optimal range for formulation generally between 5.0 and 8.0, and some sources specifying 5.0-7.0 for optimal activity of its core component. It is highly susceptible to degradation by microbial enzymes, necessitating rigorous contamination control during manufacturing. For maximal stability, it should be incorporated into cosmetic products during the final manufacturing stage at temperatures below 40°C. Optimal storage includes protection from light, sealed containers, and prompt use after opening to preserve activity and prevent microbial ingress.
Safety
Safety Profile
OLIGOPEPTIDE-107 RH-POLYPEPTIDE-1 is explicitly classified as a PROHIBITED INGREDIENT by the EU under restriction II/416, signaling significant regulatory concerns regarding its use in cosmetic products within this region. While its core component, sh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF), has been historically listed as 'Teen SAFE' and 'Irritant Free' by SkinSAFE and included in IECIC 2015, a 2023 scientific review raises serious concerns regarding unknown long-term risks associated with sh-EGF in cosmetics and questions the preclinical bioactivity basis, highlighting a clear disparity in regulatory and scientific consensus.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite proposed benefits in skin rejuvenation and repair, the ingredient OLIGOPEPTIDE-107 RH-POLYPEPTIDE-1 is prohibited in the EU due to safety concerns, and its key component faces scientific scrutiny regarding its efficacy and long-term risks, making it an ingredient to avoid in precision skincare formulations.
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