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Moumoujus

OLETH-20.

Valuable CAS 9004-98-2 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

OLETH-20 is a versatile non-ionic surfactant crucial for creating stable cosmetic emulsions, allowing oil and water-based ingredients to blend seamlessly. It functions as a solubilizer and emulsifier, while also demonstrating the capacity to enhance the permeation of active ingredients into the skin.

Summary

cleansing surfactant emulsifying solubilizing dispersing wetting thickening emollient

Science

Mechanism of Action

As a non-ionic surfactant, OLETH-20 primarily functions by reducing the surface tension between different phases, allowing oil and water components to mix and form stable, homogeneous emulsions, thus preventing separation. Beyond its emulsifying capabilities, it acts as a solubilizer, aiding in the dissolution of sparingly soluble ingredients, such as fragrances. Additionally, studies indicate its ability to improve the permeation of other active ingredients through the skin barrier, enhancing their delivery and efficacy. It also contributes to formulations as a cleansing, dispersing, wetting, thickening, and emollient agent.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.01–17%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Deemed safe for cosmetic use within this concentration range; may enhance active ingredient penetration into the skin.
  2. 02 Recommended for external applications, functioning effectively as a co-emulsifier, emollient, solubilizer, and stabilizing agent.
  3. 03 Demonstrated effectiveness as a fragrance solubilizer, even when used as the sole solubilizing agent.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

OLETH-20 possesses multiple established functions in cosmetic formulations, serving as an effective emulsifier, solubilizer, and penetration enhancer, which indicates it is not typically used for minimal or 'dusting' purposes.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 6.5 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

OLETH-20 exhibits stability across a range of acidic and alkaline conditions. Its nonionic nature ensures broad compatibility within formulations and maintains performance over a wide pH spectrum. Its ability to facilitate emulsion preparation at room temperature is particularly advantageous for incorporating heat-sensitive active ingredients.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents
  • carbon dioxide (CO2)
  • sodium hypochlorite
  • organic acids
  • mineral acids
  • peroxides
  • heat
  • flames
  • sparks

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used with restrictions
Max tested
17%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deemed OLETH-20 safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 17.0% provided the final product is formulated to be non-irritating. Caution is advised as a 5% solution showed mild, transient irritation in rabbit eyes, and consistent with other surfactants, it has the potential for mild to moderate eye and skin irritation. The CIR Panel specifically advises against its use on damaged skin. Formulators must also be aware that OLETH-20 can increase the penetration of other ingredients. Trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, may be present but can be controlled through purification.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

OLETH-20 is a valuable ingredient for stabilizing formulations and enhancing active ingredient delivery, requiring careful formulation to ensure skin compatibility and efficacy.

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