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OENOTHERA BIENNIS SEED EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 90028-66-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING

OENOTHERA BIENNIS SEED EXTRACT, commonly known as Evening Primrose Oil, is a botanical powerhouse rich in essential fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid (66-76%) and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, 7-12%). It deeply nourishes the skin, significantly improving hydration, elasticity, and barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss. Its notable anti-inflammatory properties further contribute to comprehensive skin health.

soothing emollient hydrating anti-inflammatory healing skin cell regeneration

Science

This extract functions primarily through its rich profile of essential fatty acids, notably linoleic acid (66-76%) and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, 7-12%). These lipids are vital for reinforcing the skin's natural barrier, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss and enhancing overall hydration and elasticity. As precursors to anti-inflammatory eicosanoids, the omega-6 fatty acids and GLA actively soothe and calm skin by suppressing key inflammatory mediators like IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α. Additionally, the extract offers antioxidant protection via vitamin E and polyphenols, combating oxidative stress and diminishing the appearance of fine lines. It supports robust anti-aging activity by promoting collagen matrix contraction, actin polymerization, and the production of essential extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, while also upregulating HAS2 and AQP3 for enhanced moisturization.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–20%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Significantly inhibited melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells.
  2. 02 Induced a wound closure of 79.05% ± 1.02 on human melanoma–A375 cells (20.95% inhibition rate).
  3. 03 Manifested a wound closure rate of 68.20% ± 2.98 on human melanoma–A375 cells.
  4. 04 Manifested a wound closure rate of 55.32% ± 3.09 on human melanoma–A375 cells and significant antiproliferative and pro-apoptotic activity.
  5. 05 An Oenothera biennis cell culture aqueous extract improved skin anti-ageing activity by increasing MYLK gene expression, promoting matrix collagen contraction, actin polymerization, and the production of essential ECM proteins.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

As an oil-soluble extract, this ingredient is typically incorporated into the oil phase of formulations, rendering dusting concerns irrelevant.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

It should be included in the oil phase of formulations, and prolonged exposure to heat should be avoided if possible to maintain efficacy.


Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
20%
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed Oenothera Biennis Oil and concluded it is safe for cosmetic use, citing its history of safe use in food and its lack of dermal irritancy or sensitization. The U.S. FDA also recognizes Evening Primrose Oil as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Medium

Our Assessment

Valuable

OENOTHERA BIENNIS SEED EXTRACT is a valuable, multifunctional botanical oil recognized for its comprehensive hydrating, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties, making it highly beneficial for dry and sensitive skin types despite a medium comedogenicity rating.


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