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Moumoujus

NOOTKATONE.

Valuable CAS 4674-50-4 / PERFUMING

Nootkatone, a sesquiterpenoid derived from grapefruit, offers multi-faceted benefits for skin health. It demonstrates anti-inflammatory properties, enhances cellular vitality, and significantly boosts the expression of crucial skin barrier proteins like filaggrin, aiding in the mitigation of UVB-induced damage.

Summary

Anti-inflammatory Antimicrobial Antioxidant support Skin barrier enhancement Cell viability promotion UVB damage protection (indirect)

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions by directly addressing irritation through its anti-inflammatory characteristics and potentially combating bacteria via antimicrobial actions. At a cellular level, Nootkatone actively suppresses UVB-induced damage by modulating the NRF2-HO-1 and AhR-CYP1A1 signaling pathways in skin cells. Furthermore, it promotes the genetic expression of essential skin barrier proteins, notably filaggrin, crucial for maintaining skin integrity and resilience.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a dose-dependent increase in cell viability by 24.2%, 30.3%, and 41.0% respectively, and enhanced filaggrin expression by 15.6%, 19.0%, and 30.1% respectively, effectively countering UVB-induced cellular demise.
  2. 02 Proven safe with minimal impact on cell viability, while effectively reducing LPS-induced inflammation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Nootkatone does not appear to be an ingredient commonly 'dusted' in formulations. Its observed efficacy concentrations are in micromolar ranges in vitro, with a maximum recommended usage level of 2.0000% in fragrance concentrates, suggesting it is used at meaningful levels.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As a volatile essential oil, Nootkatone's stability can be enhanced through encapsulated formulations, which have shown superior stability and reduced phytotoxicity compared to emulsifiable forms. It exhibits remarkable tenacity in fragrance applications, maintaining substantivity for over 48 hours. The ingredient has a melting point between 36-37 °C (97-97 °F).

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
2%
Sensitization risk Low

Nootkatone is FDA approved as a synthetic flavoring and an EPA-approved insect repellent. It generally exhibits low acute toxicity across oral, dermal, and inhalation exposures (Toxicity Category IV). It is considered non-irritating to the eye (Toxicity Category IV) and only slightly irritating to the skin (Toxicity Category IV). Crucially, the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) has concluded that Nootkatone with a purity exceeding 98% poses no concern for skin sensitization at current usage levels, recommending a maximum of 2.0000% in fragrance concentrates. Lower purity levels, however, may lead to skin sensitization.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Nootkatone is a valuable ingredient for promoting skin resilience, reducing inflammation, and enhancing barrier function, particularly in formulations designed for environmental protection and cellular vitality.

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