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NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3.

Valuable / BLEACHING, HUMECTANT, NAIL CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 is a sophisticated nicotinoyl peptide derivative engineered to deliver multi-functional anti-aging benefits. It effectively mimics retinol's actions, promoting significant collagen production and exhibiting potent anti-inflammatory properties, without the common associated side effects. This ingredient targets multiple signs of aging for a revitalized complexion.

Skin conditioning Anti-aging Retinoid-mimetic Collagen booster Cell turnover enhancer Hydration Anti-inflammatory Skin brightening

Science

This advanced nonapeptide derivative operates by comprehensively addressing various aspects of skin aging. It significantly boosts collagen synthesis, specifically Type I collagen, while also enhancing the production of hyaluronic acid for improved hydration. The peptide increases cellular turnover and epidermal thickness, promoting a smoother, more youthful appearance. Furthermore, it demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and offers skin brightening capabilities by hindering melanin gene expression, synthesis, and tyrosinase activity. It also works to strengthen the skin's natural barrier and retain moisture.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.005–1%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In a Korean patent filing (KR20120017827A), nicotinoyl peptide derivatives, including NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3, demonstrated excellent anti-wrinkle efficacy and anti-inflammatory effects at concentrations ranging from 0.005% to 1% by stimulating collagen production.
  2. 02 Ex-vivo manufacturer testing by Symrise for a related lipo-peptide, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 (also known as Retinopeptide 189), revealed that a 10% cream increased collagen-1 by 43%, a result comparable to 0.1% retinoic acid. A 5% concentration of this variant also led to an increase in epidermal cellular layers.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As a nicotinoyl peptide derivative, NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 exhibits excellent stability, ensuring consistent performance even during long-term storage.


Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 and its close nonapeptide variants are generally regarded as safe for topical cosmetic use, with side effects being infrequent. A preliminary patch test is advised before extensive application. Currently, no specific safety assessments from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), or FDA have been published for NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 or its close structural relatives like Nonapeptide-3 or Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3. Paula's Choice rates 'Sh-Nonapeptide-3' as 'Not rated'.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 is a valuable multi-functional peptide offering significant anti-aging benefits, including collagen boosting and retinoid-mimetic effects, with low irritation potential and excellent stability.


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