Science
Mechanism of Action
This advanced nonapeptide derivative operates by comprehensively addressing various aspects of skin aging. It significantly boosts collagen synthesis, specifically Type I collagen, while also enhancing the production of hyaluronic acid for improved hydration. The peptide increases cellular turnover and epidermal thickness, promoting a smoother, more youthful appearance. Furthermore, it demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines and offers skin brightening capabilities by hindering melanin gene expression, synthesis, and tyrosinase activity. It also works to strengthen the skin's natural barrier and retain moisture.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In a Korean patent filing (KR20120017827A), nicotinoyl peptide derivatives, including NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3, demonstrated excellent anti-wrinkle efficacy and anti-inflammatory effects at concentrations ranging from 0.005% to 1% by stimulating collagen production.
- 02 Ex-vivo manufacturer testing by Symrise for a related lipo-peptide, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 (also known as Retinopeptide 189), revealed that a 10% cream increased collagen-1 by 43%, a result comparable to 0.1% retinoic acid. A 5% concentration of this variant also led to an increase in epidermal cellular layers.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
As a nicotinoyl peptide derivative, NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 exhibits excellent stability, ensuring consistent performance even during long-term storage.
Safety
Safety Profile
NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 and its close nonapeptide variants are generally regarded as safe for topical cosmetic use, with side effects being infrequent. A preliminary patch test is advised before extensive application. Currently, no specific safety assessments from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), or FDA have been published for NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 or its close structural relatives like Nonapeptide-3 or Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3. Paula's Choice rates 'Sh-Nonapeptide-3' as 'Not rated'.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
NICOTINOYL SH-NONAPEPTIDE-3 is a valuable multi-functional peptide offering significant anti-aging benefits, including collagen boosting and retinoid-mimetic effects, with low irritation potential and excellent stability.
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