Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through multiple pathways due to its rich phytochemical composition. It contains polyphenols (such as cinnamic acid, catechin, epicatechin, and chlorogenic acid), along with alkaloids, flavonoids, tannins, saponins, cardenolides, cardiac glycosides, pregnanes, triterpenoids, and steroids. These components collectively contribute to its observed antioxidant capacity by inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation, its anti-inflammatory actions, and its antimicrobial effects. Additionally, specific extracts have demonstrated the ability to protect dermal fibroblasts from apoptosis.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Low confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In vitro studies using an Aloe vera-based Nerium oleander extract (NAE-8®) and an aqueous extract (AQ-NOE), at concentrations of 0.002-0.2 mL/L, demonstrated inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation in human whole blood cultures, indicative of anti-inflammatory potential. NAE-8® also provided 35-55% protection from apoptosis in dermal fibroblasts.
- 02 An in vitro investigation with an undiluted Nerium oleander leaf extract showed antibacterial activity against clinically isolated Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium associated with pimple formation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to significant safety concerns and widespread regulatory warnings, the purposeful inclusion of Nerium Oleander Leaf Extract in cosmetic formulations at any concentration is highly problematic. Regulatory bodies have restricted or banned its use, rendering it unsuitable for any form of inclusion, including 'dusting'.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
A cold extract of Nerium oleander leaves, prepared by stirring in distilled water at room temperature, had its pH adjusted to 5.9 for storage, suggesting stability at this pH range.
Safety
Safety Profile
Nerium oleander is considered highly toxic if ingested, primarily due to cardiac glycosides like oleandrin and neriine, which inactivate Na+, K+-ATPases. The U.S. FDA classifies Nerium oleander as toxic when ingested, and the American Cancer Society indicates that even small amounts can be lethal, with unproven effectiveness. For topical use in cosmetics, the ingredient is listed with 'HIGH' use restrictions by EWG Skin Deep and is noted as 'Restricted' and 'Banned or found unsafe for use in cosmetics' by Health Canada. No specific safe maximum concentration for cosmetic application has been established by major regulatory bodies like CIR or SCCS, underscoring severe safety concerns.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Despite some limited in vitro findings suggesting beneficial properties, Nerium Oleander Leaf Extract is classified as highly toxic and unsafe for cosmetic use by multiple regulatory bodies, rendering it unsuitable for formulation.
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References
Sources