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Moumoujus

MYRISTOYL NONAPEPTIDE-3.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING

Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 is a pioneering biomimetic lipo-peptide engineered to deliver retinoid-like benefits, such as accelerated cell turnover and collagen synthesis, without the typical irritation or photosensitivity associated with traditional retinoids. This advanced ingredient is designed to visibly renew and regenerate skin for a smoother, more youthful complexion.

Summary

Peptide Anti-Aging Skin-conditioning Collagen Stimulator Cell Turnover Enhancer Hyaluronic Acid Synthesis Enhancer Melanin Inhibitor Anti-inflammatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

Also known as RetinoPeptide™ 189, this synthetic lipo-peptide precisely mimics the biological activity of retinoic acid. It stimulates Type I collagen production and enhances hyaluronic acid synthesis, crucial for skin firmness and hydration. By accelerating dermal cell proliferation and turnover, it reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, it inhibits Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) gene expression, protecting existing collagen, and demonstrates the ability to hinder melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity for a more even skin tone. Its myristoyl group enhances effective skin penetration.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.005–0.05%
Optimal

0.005%-0.05%

Key findings

  1. 01 Ex-vivo testing demonstrated an increase in epidermal cellular layers (cell turnover), comparable to the effect of 0.1% retinoic acid.
  2. 02 Ex-vivo testing by the manufacturer showed a significant 43% increase in collagen-1 production, comparable to the effect of 0.1% retinoic acid.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

As a lipo-peptide, it exhibits versatility in formulation, being soluble or dispersible in both water and oil. While general peptide solutions often maintain stability in a slightly acidic pH range of 5-6, it is crucial to avoid formulating with strong acidic ingredients (e.g., salicylic acid, AHAs, retinol) to prevent potential skin irritation when combined.

Conflicts

  • Strong acidic ingredients (e.g., salicylic acid, AHA, retinol)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 is broadly considered safe for topical application, designed to offer retinoid benefits without the common side effects of irritation or sun sensitivity. Adverse reactions such as redness or allergic responses are rare, yet a preliminary patch test is always recommended prior to extensive use.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This biomimetic lipo-peptide offers effective, retinoid-like anti-aging and skin-renewing benefits with a low risk of irritation, making it a valuable addition for a wide range of skin concerns.

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