Science
Mechanism of Action
This precision peptide integrates a 'MYRISTOYL' fatty acid, derived from myristic acid, which significantly enhances its oil solubility and subsequent skin penetration. The 'GLYCINE/HISTIDINE/LYSINE' (GHK) portion functions as a potent signal peptide, instructing the skin to increase collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. GHK is also recognized for its role in wound healing, tissue regeneration, and as an endogenous antioxidant, effectively neutralizing hydroxyl and peroxyl radicals. This comprehensive action helps restore dermal collagen levels, diminish fine lines and wrinkles, refine texture, even skin tone, and impart a noticeable lifting effect, while potentially improving the absorption of other topical ingredients.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a signal peptide, Myristoyl Glycine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide is designed for efficacy at relatively low concentrations, acting as a cellular messenger rather than a bulk ingredient. There is no indication from the available data that this ingredient is commonly 'dusted' in formulations; its potent signaling mechanism suggests that even small, precise concentrations are biologically active and beneficial.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The Glycine-Histidine-Lysine (GHK) peptide core, particularly when complexed, exhibits good stability in water and within a pH range of 4.5 to 7.4, even at elevated temperatures (60 °C for at least two weeks). However, it is susceptible to degradation via hydrolytic cleavage under strongly basic or oxidative conditions, and to a lesser extent, acidic stress. The myristoyl fatty acid component significantly boosts oil solubility and enhances skin penetration.
Synergies
- May enhance the skin's absorption of other topically applied ingredients
Conflicts
- Negatively charged lipids (e.g., dicetyl phosphate) may reduce the stability of the GHK copper complex.
- Peptides with free amine groups (like histidine and lysine) can react with formaldehyde impurities (often found in excipients like polyethylene glycol and glycerol) and acidic impurities (e.g., glycolic and lactic acid from PLGA hydrolysis).
Safety
Safety Profile
While Myristoyl Glycine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide itself has not been reviewed by the CIR Expert Panel, closely related pentapeptides like Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 have been deemed safe for cosmetic use. The core Glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine (GHK) peptide and its copper complexes demonstrate good skin tolerance, and its constituent amino acids (Glycine, Histidine, Lysine) are common and have been reviewed by CIR, indicating a generally low risk profile.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A valuable signal peptide that, through its GHK core and myristoyl fatty acid modification, precisely targets collagen production and skin regeneration, offering comprehensive anti-aging benefits for improved skin texture, firmness, and tone.
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References
Sources