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MYRISTIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 544-63-8 / CLEANSING, PERFUMING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Myristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid that plays multiple vital roles in skincare formulations, acting as an effective cleansing and emulsifying agent. It also conditions the skin by enhancing moisture retention and contributing to desirable product textures.

cleansing emulsifying texture enhancing opacifying skin-conditioning surfactant emollient barrier strengthening penetration enhancement mild antimicrobial anti-inflammatory

Science

On the skin, Myristic Acid primarily functions as a surfactant, effectively reducing surface tension to lift and remove impurities and excess oils, often generating a rich lather. As an emulsifier, it stabilizes oil and water phases, contributing to uniform product consistency and a creamy texture. It also acts as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent, softening and smoothing the skin by reinforcing the skin barrier and minimizing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Furthermore, it can facilitate the absorption of other active ingredients and exhibits mild antimicrobial properties. Emerging research indicates potential anti-inflammatory action by increasing IL-10 production.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–25%
Optimal

N/A


Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Myristic Acid is a multi-functional ingredient with documented roles as an emulsifier, surfactant, and skin conditioner, essential for product efficacy and sensory attributes, thus it is not typically considered a 'dusted' ingredient.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

In water-based formulations, Myristic Acid can be neutralized with sodium or potassium bases to form corresponding myristate soaps, which are excellent for generating dense, stable foam and effectively removing lipids. In emulsion systems, the free acid enhances structural integrity and viscosity, promoting stable oil-water interfaces and contributing to creamy textures.

Synergies

  • Enhances the penetration and absorption of other active skincare ingredients.

Conflicts

  • High concentrations in leave-on products may be problematic for individuals prone to acne due to its moderate comedogenicity.
  • Overuse in cleansing formulations may potentially strip natural skin oils, leading to dryness or irritation, particularly for sensitive skin types.

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
25%
Sensitization risk Moderate

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has affirmed Myristic Acid, along with its salts and esters, as safe for use in cosmetic products at current practice and concentration levels, up to 25%. It is also permitted by the FDA for direct addition to food.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Valuable

Myristic Acid is a valuable multi-functional fatty acid, offering significant formulation benefits like emulsification and texture enhancement, alongside skin conditioning and emerging anti-inflammatory properties, though its moderate irritancy and comedogenicity necessitate careful concentration in specific product types.


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