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Moumoujus

MONASCUS/BRASSICA NAPUS SEED OIL FERMENT.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

This innovative ingredient is a fermented oil, integrating the regenerative benefits of Monascus species with the nourishing qualities of Brassica Napus seed oil. It is engineered to deliver comprehensive anti-aging, wound healing, and moisturizing effects to the skin.

Summary

Antioxidant Emollient Skin-softening Anti-aging Wound healing Collagen synthesis promotion Elastin synthesis promotion Enzyme inhibition (collagenase, elastase, MMP-1) Cell proliferation

Science

Mechanism of Action

The ferment functions through multiple pathways: it acts as a potent antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals, and actively inhibits key enzymes like collagenase, elastase, and MMP-1, which are responsible for degrading skin's structural proteins. Simultaneously, it stimulates the cellular production of collagen type I and elastin, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity. The Brassica Napus component further contributes by providing emollients, boosting hydration, offering protective properties, and helping to soothe irritated skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range N/A
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 A Monascus purpureus extract (MPTR), tested at concentrations up to 0.5 mg/mL, demonstrated non-cytotoxicity to human dermal fibroblasts. It effectively inhibited collagenase and elastase enzymes, stimulated cellular production of collagen type I and elastin, and notably accelerated wound healing, reducing wound area by up to 90% within 48 hours.
  2. 02 Fermented red yeast oil, derived from Monascus purpureus, exhibited excellent cell proliferation and antioxidant activity. It suppressed MMP-1 biosynthesis, which is crucial for collagen degradation, and actively promoted collagen synthesis, contributing to a significant anti-aging effect without reported skin irritation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

As an oil-based ingredient with demonstrated functional benefits, this ferment is not typically considered an ingredient included at negligible concentrations for marketing claims (dusting).

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

The fermented red yeast oil component exhibits excellent formulation stability, resisting discoloration, detachment, or separation across temperature conditions ranging from 4°C to 45°C. Brassica Napus Seed Oil can enhance a formula's texture, stability, and penetration, although high heat treatment may denature proteins and decrease the solubility of rapeseed oil.

Conflicts

  • Heat treatment might denature proteins and decrease the solubility of rapeseed oil.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has not specifically reviewed the combined MONASCUS/BRASSICA NAPUS SEED OIL FERMENT. However, Brassica Napus Seed Oil is considered safe in current cosmetic practices and holds GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) status in the United States. While certain Monascus species can produce mycotoxins, specific citrinin-free strains are utilized, and fermented red yeast oil is reported as non-toxic to cells and free from skin irritation. The overall potential for irritation is assessed as low.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

No Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This fermented oil offers a multifunctional approach to skin health, combining potent anti-aging, regenerative, and moisturizing properties with a low risk of irritation, making it a valuable addition to targeted skincare formulations.

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