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Moumoujus

MELISSA OFFICINALIS MERISTEM CELL CULTURE.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

Melissa Officinalis Meristem Cell Culture is an innovative active ingredient derived from lemon balm plant cell culture, designed to offer multi-faceted protection against modern environmental aggressors. It precisely targets oxidative stress, blue light, and infrared radiation damage, while also providing soothing and regenerative benefits to the skin.

Summary

Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory Environmental Protectant Skin-Conditioning Hydrating Regenerative Soothing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient provides robust antioxidant protection by significantly reducing Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) production, thereby shielding skin from oxidative damage induced by UV and blue light exposure. Its rich composition of phenolic acids, including rosmarinic acid, and flavonoids, contributes to potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. It specifically inhibits blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity and defends against infrared (IR) damage by preventing IR-induced elastin alteration and suppressing IR-induced Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) release. Additionally, polysaccharides aid in moisture retention and fortify the skin barrier, while phytosterols actively support skin regeneration, promoting overall cell vitality and resilience against daily environmental stressors.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–0.1%
Optimal

0.1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated moderate protective activity against infrared irradiations, completely preventing IR-induced elastin alteration.
  2. 02 Exhibited strong protective activity against infrared irradiations, entirely inhibiting elastin alteration and MMP-1 release. This concentration also protected skin against oxidative stress and blue light by reducing Nrf2 activation and significantly decreasing ROS production in HaCaT cells.
  3. 03 Showed excellent tolerability by ex vivo human skin explants, inducing no modification on cell viability.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

This ingredient is typically supplied as a cell culture extract and is water-soluble, not a powdered substance, so dusting is not a typical concern.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

This ingredient is water-soluble, facilitating its integration into various cosmetic formulations. It is obtained via in vitro plant cell culture, ensuring a standardized content of beneficial compounds like rosmarinic acid and freedom from environmental contaminants. The plant cell culture medium used in its production was adjusted to pH 6.5.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0.1%
Sensitization risk Low

While not formally reviewed by CIR, SCCS, or FDA, studies have shown good tolerability by ex vivo human skin at concentrations up to 0.1% w/v, with no impact on cell viability. General *Melissa officinalis* leaf extract demonstrated cytotoxicity only at significantly higher concentrations (500-1000 µg/mL), suggesting a low risk profile for the meristem cell culture at typical usage levels.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Melissa Officinalis Meristem Cell Culture is a valuable ingredient, offering robust protection against environmental stressors like blue light and infrared radiation, alongside antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative benefits, suitable for all skin types.

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References

Sources